The Gippsland Lakes are Australia's largest network of inland water and have been a favourite destination for 30 years. My first experiences there were with friends I worked with in the 1980s. We used to hire yachts and spent long weekends sailing out of Metung and Paynesville. Lisa and I also had sailing trips down there before we had children.
Last year Tony, Simon and I had our 1st weekend paddling trip on the Lakes over the Labour Day weekend. A year later our plans are more ambitious, we are going to paddle from Sale on the Latrobe River to Lakes Entrance.
Simon and I drove to Lakes Entrance in separate cars. We left my car parked next to the Tourist Bureau in Lakes Entrance and then drove back to Sale. Tony will join us after Day 1.
Day 1 Port of Sale to Marlay Point, Lake Wellington
Although we were up early we were in no hurry to get going. We walked up to the shopping centre to find breakfast at a cafe. There was nothing open in Sale but eventually we found a cafe that had just opened its doors for the day. Simon had bacon and eggs and I had scrambled eggs and mushrooms.
We went back to the caravan park and packed up the tents and loaded the kayaks with gear. Then we dragged the kayaks on their trolleys down to the boat ramp in the Port of Sale. At 9.55 am we launched and we were on our way down the Latrobe river in lovely sunshine. The river bank is lined with eucalypts and plenty of dense foliage.
We passed a rower and his coach in a tinnie as we paddled. We frequently saw fish jumping and past lost of anglers. We also saw some cyclists at one point where there must be a bike path.
After 6 km we went under the Swing bridge where the Latrobe meets the Thomson river. From here the river turns east. It was very pleasant paddling. We encountered a convoy of cruisers at one point which seemed to create a swell that lingered long after they past.
After 2.5 hours paddling we found a boat ramp and pulled out for some lunch. While we were there a young bloke and his grandfather pulled up in a runabout. We enjoyed watching the interaction of grandpa and grandson as they got there boat onto its trailer. They had been preparing a bird hide for the opening of the duck shooting season in a fortnight. Grandpa was bit stiff in the joints and slow moving but he could still back a trailer very smartly.
Another boat also arrived. The skippers wife struggled to get a rope around a post. She didn't want my help though and there was some chatter between her and her husband. She seemed to think it was his fault but I wasn't so sure.
After lunch we launched back into the river and quickly discovered Lake Wellington just around the corner. In the river we were well protected from the wind but once on the lake we were hit with a strong westerly wind. We turned into it and paddled hard for about 20 minutes to get the the protection of the western shoreline.
We paddled along the shoreline for about 20 minutes which included a drift past a mob of pelicans so we could get some pictures.
I was lucky enough to catch one pelican just as it took off. The camera captured just as it left the water.
We realized Marlay Point, our destination was off to our right and the shortest way was to cut across the bay. At first we raced along with the wind behind us but as we got further out the swell picked up.
We 30 minutes in 1-1.5 metre swell and were just a little concerned not to get side-on to the waves. Eventually past around Marlay Point and were able to turn toward the campsite arriving about 3.30 pm after 26 km.
Our campsite was just above the water overlooking the lake to east.
At night the sky was very clear and we could see the Milky Way. Excellent end to a great day kayaking.
Day 2 - Marlay Point, Lake Wellington to Talia Point , Lake Victoria
Although we were wake early we took our time packing up as we were waiting for Tony to arrive. We had a long chat with a bloke from northern NSW who also kayaks. Tony arrived at 9.30 am a little earlier than expected and we were on the water at 9.50 am.
Crossing Lake Wellington was a challenge that concerned me mots on this trip. Wellington is notorius for blowing up very quickly and can be very dangerous for small craft. Fortunately on this morning there was no wind.
We agreed to skirt the northern shoreline rather than paddle directly across. In the ned we cut some corners and reached Plover Point after 3 hours. As we approached we struggled to spot the lead-in markers for the entrance to McLennan Strait. My map showed showed 4 red markers and 1 green however we spotted 2 red initially and found the green was actually inside the entrance.
We pulled up on sandy shore just near the entrance and enjoyed cheese and crackers, a hard-boiled egg and a muesli bar for lunch.
We spent 90 minutes paddling down the Strait to Hollands Landing. We saw lots of birds including pelicans, herons and cormorants. There was also some terns that hovered and then dived vertically at the water.
The shop and caravan park at Hollands Landing has closed. Simon and I were disappointed as were looking forward to a shower after 2 days of paddling.
Dinner was Cup-A-Soup, Shapes and pasta with sardines followed by some dark chocolate. There were lots of mosquitoes so it was a early night in the tent.
Day 3 - Talia Point to Paynesville
Last night we decided to paddle down to Lochsport before breakfast hence we were on the water early despite boiling the billy for coffee and then taking too long to pack up.
We arrived at the Lochsport Yacht Club jetty after an hour. At the general store/petrol station we were directed to the supermarket a kilometer away. Lochsport seems to have grown a lot since last time I visited and seems more attractive as a holiday destination.
Back at the jetty we wandered over to the yacht club seeking water to replenish our supply. There was a committee meeting going on however we were welcomed in for a cup of tea and a chat. We declined the tea and bickies but enjoyed 20 minutes chatting with the committee members. The next day the club was hosting 70 paddlers from the Sale to Sea Disability Challenge.
Back on the water we paddled down Lake Victoria aiming for Sperm Whale Head. By 1.00 pm we were still well short so we pulled up on sandy spit near Trouser Point for lunch.
Hard to believe that we get to these beautiful places all to ourselves. Kayaks definitely allow us to get to places that most people will never see..
After lunch the wind picked up and we were assisted by a gentle swell that pushed us along. Nearing Sperm Whale Head we were seduced by the attraction of Paynesville and our need to shower after 3 days paddling so we altered course.
Half way across Lake Victoria Tony and I noticed that Simon had drifted further down the lake and was not paddling strongly. It seemed that he would missed the entrance to Paynesville. We paddled down to him to see if he was okay. In cycling terminology he had "bonked" and had run out of energy. I had a sachet of peanut butter in my life-jacket which he ate and then we paddled to Paynesville together.
I used my phone to find and book into a caravan park. We had to drag our kayaks up the hill to the Resthaven Caravan Park. It was very neat and compact with good facilities. We enjoyed hot showers despite signs suggesting that the hot water was not working.
We finished the day with a beer at the Old Pub and then ate fish and chips.
Day 4 - Paynesville to Metung
I had the best sleep of the trip so far. It seems my body is getting used to sleeping on the sleeping mat on the ground. It was cooler and we woke to the news that Simon had decided to catch the bus back to Bairnsdale and then catch the train to his car. He felt he hadn't recovered enough from yesterday. We did offer him the option of shorter day over to Bunga Arm and to spend the rest of the day relaxing but he decided to stick to his pla. We were disappointed for him but there will be other opportunities to explore this part of the lakes in future.
Tony and I packed up and dragged our kayaks down the hill to the beach near Progress jetty and then went to the bakery and bought some sandwiches to take with us for lunch. Instead of going over to Bunga Arm we decided to exit Payneville on the Lake King side and paddle alongside Raymond Island. It only took an hour to get to Point King. We we amused to see a yacht putting up its sails, almost go the wrong side of a marker and the fall slowly behind in the very light wind as we paddled a more direct route.
From Point King we aimed for the entrance to the Tambo river however I misjudged its position because I hadn't checked the map. My mistake meant we were about 2 kilometers south of the entrance.Our paddle across Lake King had been very pleasant and calm but after a few minutes on the beach the wind picked up significantly causing a big waves to be pushed up.
Instead of heading up to the Tambo we decided to run to Metung around Tambo Bluff. There was now a rolling swell and we were bouncing around. Tony opted for an inshore route while I prefer to further out relying on my sailor's instinct not to be caught on a lee shore. Once around the bluff the swell was consistent and it was not unpleasant being bounced around. Closer to Metung I was able to use the swell to bring me around to the entrance to Bancroft Bay.
While out on the water I tried to keep an eye on Tony. As we sit very low on the water it was hard to spot him in the waves and concentrate on my own paddling. Fortunately neither of us trouble and we came around Shaving Point close together and then pulled up near the Metung Pub.
We went to the Tourist Office to find accommodation. The bloke there said there was no campsites in Metung but to try the pub for a cheap room. Unfortunately the pub had no rooms available so we have to go elsewhere. As we were leaving the pub I ran into James and Winnie Kong who I worked with in the 1980s. James also sailed with me on the Lakes many times. It was great to catch up.
Tony and I ended up at Metung Waters (motel?), a bit upmarket for us but we were happy as the weather had turned cooler. After showering and putting on fresh clothes we BBQ'd sausages for lunch on the electric BBQs in the park near the Pub.
Later we walked around to Chinaman's Creek past the old mineral spa site. Annoyingly we discovered we could have free camped there as it is an official RV stop. Pity the tourism guy didn't know this or maybe his job is promoting the paid accommodation.
Day 5 - Metung to Lakes Entrance
I was awake early and anxious to get going early. The retired gentleman was a bit slower having gotten used to lying in. Never less we were on the water at 8.00 am after dragging the kayaks around to Shaving Point.
The morning was grey and cool but the wind had dropped and Bancroft Bay was calm as we paddled away from Metung around Mosquito Point. Cunningham Arm is particularly beautiful with the green hills on the north side overlooking the water. We passed Nungurner and Nyeramilang before passing between Fraser Island and Rigby Island to get over to Barrier Landing. Once there we pulled out and walked over the sand dune to see the 90 mile beach and just a short distance away "the Entrance" to the lakes.
There surf was rolling in in clean waves.
Paying heed to the current we paddled back between to the island to Cunningham Arm so we could paddle down the north side towards lake Entrance. We did not need to worry as the current was weak and we turned into North Arm and past Bullock Island without any excitement.
A short paddle and our trip was over
