Day 11 - Psyche Bend to Mildura

I heard Simon moving around at 6.00 am and although there was no rush we decided to pack up an get going. We had breakfast and were on our way by 7.25 am. We were just cruising as our final destination was only 15 km down the river. The river winds it ways around Kings Billabong and there  was still lots of bird life despite being so close to Mildura. There was lots of evidence of campsites along the way, some occupied, some with fixtures that indicated use.

The Chaffey Pumphouse at Psyche Bend

We had to consult the map a couple of times to ensure we went in the right direction on a couple of bends. Eventually we found our way to Gol Gol only 5 km from the finish. We pulled up here next the boat ramp and had a chat with a concreter who was working on the foreshore redevelopment. Simon mentioned that he remembered a sandy beach from a previous visit. The concreter said they had added another 5 tonne of sand but that it would not survive the wash from speed boats and water skiers. He sounded less than happy about water skiers and their manners of the water.

We made our way over to the “Golly” Bakery Cafe where we had morning tea. The homemade pies, pasties and sausages rolls looked irresistible and we indulged. I also had a coffee and a pastie and sausage roll although they did try to sell me a pie as well, I must have looked hungry. Simon went for a pie and ginger beer. I was happy.

A paddlesteamer restaurant near Mildura

After morning tea we paddled past a lot of expensive waterfront properties, many had their expensive toys on display. It seemed like their owners were flaunting the wealth in a competition to show who had the biggest .........wallet! This seems to be the spot where the ‘well-to-do’ of Mildura live. It was a contrast to what we had been seeing over the last 10 days where nature was the dominant theme.

Roun

Back into the kayaks for the final 5 km. The George Chaffey Bridge came into view and nearby a large boat ramp where we ended our journey. I went off and collected the car and backed it up into the middle of the very large boat ramp and then had another attempt to move it closer to one side. Just as well as 3 firetrucks turned up to pump water from the river. It would have been embarrassing if I hadn’t left room on such a large boat ramp.

Have a look at how much gear came out of Simon’s kayak. Good thing they are so big. We wouldn’t be able to carry that much gear on the bike or backpacking.

Day 10 - Marker 958 to Psyche Bend Marker 904

Another early start with a forecast of 37 degrees. We left our idyllic campsite on the beach at 7.00 am. In the 1st 90 minutes we passed a succession of beautiful sandy beaches. We pulled up on one for stretch and some Scotch Fingers. I lay down in the shade and could really have just stayed there all day.

We pushed on until lunchtime when we had paddled 36 km and pulled up on a boat ramp. There was a picnic table nearby and toilets. Ideal for me to be able to sit at the picnic table without my chair. While we were there a car pulled up nearby. It was a local chap who was catching shrimp for use a bait for a fishing trip he was doing the next day.

He came over for chat and gave us the benefit of his local knowledge including that there were plenty of campsites with sandy beached further on. This turned out to be garbage as the only beach we saw for the rest of the afternoon was opposite Bottle Bend. That was 2 from 2 for bad trip information from locals, The lesson is that if they haven’t actually paddled a kayak on the river they probably haven’t seen it with the necessary perspective to give advice that is sensible for us.

                                     Red Cliffs is a suburb of Mildura we passed late in the day.

We were expecting to see Tim and Sue our neighbours at Robinvale Caravan Park at Bottle Bend but we couldn’t see their van when we paddled past.

                                        You can’t see it but these iIbis were all facing into the wind

As the afternoon wore on the Northerly wind strengthened and we had to paddle hard into the wind on the north-south reaches of the river. We weren’t finding any sandy beaches and the campsites didn’t look great. Eventually we found a boat ramp occupied by locals with young kids and a JetSki and sped boat. We got out to have look for a campsite. Simon was amused at my reaction to the kids asking questions like was my paddle float a tent?

After a look around we decided to move on assisted by a kid who wanted to launch my kayak before I actually got in it..

After 54 km we reached Psyche Bend site of the original Chaffey Pumphouse and pulled up onto a campsite. We have been spoiled by the wonderful campsites we have had on this trip so this site looked poor compared to what we have become used too. It was adequate for our purpose and we quickly had our tents up. It had been a much longer day than we planned and the wind and heat made it very tough. It was still 34 degrees late in the night. It did not cool down until 6.00 am next morning. Very disappointed with the amount of rubbishthat had been left around the campsite particularly as most campers would have arrived but car and have the means to transport their rubbish away.

Day 9 - Marker 1022 to Marker 958

Last night we decided to get an earlier start in order to get ahead of the heat hence at 5.30 am we were both already packing up. By 6.40 we were breakfasted, packed and launched.

As always early morning is a special time to paddle. Early on we saw an eagle with a fish on sandbar. It flew off carrying the fish as we approached. We saw emus and kangaroos on the banks and as always lots of different birds.

We made good progress - 16 km after 2 hours and we were approaching Tarpaulin Cutting where the map shows the river doing a loop with the cutting as a shortcut. Both entrances to the loop are now blocked so it really a billabong now but it saved us 8 km on paper.

Our 1st stop was to be Colignan however before we got there past a slipway for paddlesteamers.

The bloke working there was about to drag a steamer up the slipway and there were a couple rusting hulls there. They were massive.

He also told us there was nothing at Colignan and that we could access Nangiloc from the near side of the bend. Turns out he was wrong - maybe he was correct if we were in different boats but there was nowhere for us to put in where he said.

Not long after as we rounded a bend near a sandbar we saw an eagle swooping a duck family trying get a snack of recent hatching. The parent ducks were defending valiantly. It was an amazing sight. We are so privileged.

At lunch we discovered that my chair had vanished. My cargo net was loose and most likely I accidentally sent the chair overboard when I grabbed the binoculars to read a sign. We rang Tony to give him a laugh as I had chair and he didn’t when we crossed the Nullarbor this year.

Eventually we arrived at Nangiloc. We has to walk a kilometre to the shop but it was worth it as we got coke and ice cream and sausages to cook for dinner. After we relaunched and paddled another 4 km to a beautiful beach where we set up on the sand.

Hard to beat such a beautiful campsite. As we sat down to after dinner, Simon mentioned it would have been good to have a fishing rod just to sit by the river and relax. When we tell people about these beaches we stay on I don’t think they understand but these 2 pictures give a good idea. We could happily stay here for a couple of days.

Day 8 Marker 1074 to Marker 1022 (and some)

Both of us were up at first light packing up, consequently we were on the water by 7.25 am. I started out by paddling across the river to some swallows’ nests opposite our campsite. My sister Anne had commented her enjoyment of the previous photo of swallows’ nest from a few day ago.

Another beautiful morning, not long after we passed Jell’s Island which had a rocky outcrop nearby.

Our first stop was at Wemen 8 km down the river. There is a Petrol Station/Shop here so we were hoping it would be open for some treats and some fresh water. We climbed out at the boat ramp which was 500 metres away from the shop. Unfortunately it was only 9.15 am and the shop wasn’t going open until 10.00 am.

As an alternative I tried a tap near the petrol pump, the water stunk of petrol so I had to tip it out. I could see the neighbours were outside behind their house so we wandered around and asked if they could help us with drinking water. The family were Fijian, grandparents visiting from home, daughter and son-in-law and grandchild. They were happy to help us. They even offered us ice with the water. The Son-In-Law told us he was working at “Chambers” on wine grapes. He also confirmed there are shops at Nangiloc.

We set of again and paddled for 90 minutes and then pulled into a small beach for a break and some Scotch Fingers. There were some fisherman in a boat nearby. Oddly despite the heat we didn’t go for a swim.

Just on Noon I suggested we pull into a sandy beach and take a break in the shade as we had slowed down and the sun was beating down. We had lunch and a swim before heading off. At lunch an examination of the map revealed an unexpected bonus, an apparent shortcut saving us 6 km from marker 1036 to marker 1028 (we only had to paddle 2 km). The river on the map wound round an island but to our eyes both entries were blocked with overgrowth.

We had another swim just before Retail Cutting (the shortcut) and then paddled on to Deep Bend where we set up camp.

The highlight of the day was seeing some emu by the side of river. We also saw lots of feral goats, some kangaroo and as always lots of bird life.

Day 7 Robinvale to Marker 1074 (8 km from Wemen)

Yesterday we caught the VLine bus to Swan Hill to collect my car. We had to be at the bus stop by 8.15 am so we could purchase a ticket. Before hand we breakfast at Pana Cafe on the Highway leading into town. Bacon and eggs are not vegetarian but they are yummy and the coffee was excellent.

The tourism office manager arrived late to open up and we were a little worried that she would not get there before the bus however she arrived in just enough time to get us sorted including giving us the phone number for the Euston Weir Lockmaster. Just like last year there was confusion about whether we were entitled to Seniors discounts on the tickets. This year it was Simon who was offered (last it was Joe). Do we really look that old? We should get T-Shirts printed with “Under 50 - Just had a hard life” (Simon’s suggestion, for the record he is over 50).

The bus trip is scheduled to leave Robinvale at 8.38 am and arrive at Swan Hill at 10.50 am. We were only 25  kms fro Swan Hill when the driver had to stop and take a break for 30 minutes at servo near Nyahh. What a joke! Why wouldn’t you have the break in a major town. No doubt some overzealous OH & S regulation.

We collected the car and drove straight to Mildura somehow managing to take the wrong route and missing doing some research for towns along the river that we might want to stop at. It worked out well because we had time to park the car and buy some lunch before meeting Tim and Sue our caravan park neighbours and getting a ride back to Robinvale.

Later in the afternoon we went to the IGA and shopped for the rest of trip and for our evening meal. We had Italian sausages with some Thai inspired green salad with bread. It was a lovely meal.

Fat Yak is a Seayak! Evidence from last night.

Back on the Water

Today we were up early, I went for a run and returned to find Simon had already packed up his tent. The forecast for the next 3 days is very hot weather so we want to make early starts. We launched the kayaks with Tim and Sue watching just after 7.30 am.

Approaching the Sturt Hwy bridge at Robinvale

It is a 6 km paddle to the Euston Weir so Simon rang the lock keeper to let him know we were on our way.

Chad had time for a cup of coffee before we arrived. The gate were already open and we paddled straight into the lock. The water was released until we had dropped 4 meters to level of the river below the weir and away we went.

This pelican perch was shortly after the weir. There were a number of pelicans in the area - possibly the weir brings fish to the surface, easy pickings for hungry pelicans

There were lots of nice beaches and a few family groups camping. At one point we paddled round a bend that had magnificent red cliffs on the Victorian side of the river. It was pretty how although the cloud cover stopped us getting too hot. We also dunked our hats and hat a couple of swims. lunch was cheese and crackers.

When we paddled past the 1174 marker around 4.30 pm we had covered 50 km. There was a small beach with a reasonable camping site just after so we pulled in. I was feeling weary possibly because I hadn’t eaten enough. Simon had a bag of sugar snakes which helped revive me.







ward

Day 6 - Beach opposite Meilman Station to Robinvale

A bright sunny morning saw us on the river early. We quickly passed Marker 1172 where we had originally planned to stop yesterday. We were happy with our choice to stop where we did last night.

After 4km we encountered our 1st shortcut of the day.It only saved us 2 km but every km saved is a morale boost when you have paddled for a number of days. Examining the maps later in the morning I discovered another much more significant shortcut just as we approach Robinvale. The map shows markers dropping suddenly from 1138 to 1124. The river winds its way around Bumbang Island but the direct route saves 12 km. That was still someway off but the discovery made us more relaxed about paddling into Robinvale.

As we past the 1st shortcut there was a permanent campsite of the NSW side. It had all the facilities including a loo with a view. The plumbing appeared inadequate and while sitting enjoying the view you could be surprised by kayakers silently paddling down the river. There was no-one at home this day.

Even though we benefited from the shortcuts the day seemed to drag. Eventually we rounded the corner and paddled down towards the Robinvale bridge. We located the boat ramp just before the bridge and just next to it the caravan park.

We dragged our kayaks onto the grass and then went in search of the caravan park office. The manager was most helpful and allocated us the campsite nearest the boat ramp so we didn’t have to carry our gear far.

We set up out tents and showered and then walked into town to have a look around. First priority was finding the supermarket and buying some fruit and more importantly Coke. After that we went back to camp and did our washing.

Later we walked back to town, bought a six-pack and had dinner in the Chinese restaurant. There weren’t many other choices, the pub had burnt down. We could have taken a courtesy bus to the Golf Club or the Euston Workers Club but that was too much trouble. We enjoyed our dinner and then walked back to our tent where we had a long chat with our campsite neighbours Tim and Jenny.

Day 5 - Boundary Bend to Meilman Station

It was very cold this morning - 4 degrees but it was crisp and fresh. We packed up and went into the servo for coffee and breakfast. I had an egg and bacon roll in contravention of my pescatarian diet. It was good! Better than the coffee! The whole servo experience, especially the lady behind the counter with her quick wit was very enjoyable.

We were on the water at 7.40 am and the first 2 hours flew by. The mix of bird life changes each day, today there kookaburras and darters which we hadn’t seen on previous days. We went past some mud swallows nests in the overhang of an old tree trunk. I went up close for a photo - stunning construction. Simon asked how do they do that without opposable thumbs?

At lunch we had done 36 km which left us another 3 hours of paddling to reach our planned campsite.  We slowed to get some pictures of pelicans and I was lucky to a great action shot as they took off.

All day the scenery was beautiful, Eucalpts and high banks all the way. We had the river to ourselves as the only people we saw were 2 maintenance workers standing on a water pump beside the river.

Late in the afternoon we paddled past a couple of great beach campsites. The last one opposite Meilman Station was too good to pass by so we pulled in. The beach was great and we enjoyed a couple of swims before dinner. Pity Simon drowned his watch - I went swimming with my glasses on fortunately I managed to hang on to them. As it happens neither has a working watch now.

With dinner we had a couple of beers that Simon had cooled in the river by putting them in a mesh bag tied to some rope. They were not cold but were cool enough to enjoy with our 3 course meal, Shapes, Pasta & Tuna and Mars Bar.

Day 4 - Marker 1266 to Boundary Bend - (Melbourne Cup Day)

According to Simon the sky was a clear as it gets when he got up in the middle of the night. Fortunately he decided not to share and I was having a good sleep despite the hard ground. Another cold start - the southerly wind continues all day although it only reaches down to the river on some bends.

An early start saw us cover 16 km by 9.30 am. We pulled onto 1 of the many beaches we saw this morning. It had a camper van on it - all closed up, the occupants still in bed. No doubt they were wandering why these to strangely clad visitors from the Planet Kayak decided to have morning tea in their secret haven.

Another 8 km we arrived at the junction with the Murrumbidgee- a little underwhelming but still a significant place. The “Bidgee” was known as the clear river by the paddle steamer captains having clearer water than the Murray. I paddled over to get closer look and you could definitely see where the Bidgee water met the Murray. Simon paddled into the river entrance and thought the change in color was one of the highlights of the trip.

At 12.30 we pulled up on a beach opposite Narrung Cutting for lunch - our last hard boiled egg each with cheese and crackers. I was finding the wind very cool while Simon was happy in the shade. After lunch we paddled around the island nature reserve rather than take the shortcut through the cutting which would have saved us a couple of kilometres.

We arrived at Boundary Bend about 2.30 pm - checked in at the caravan park and then dragged our kayaks on the trolleys into the park. After we set up camp I went for a jog - the area is surrounded by orange groves and almond orchards.

We had dinner in the servo which allowed us to have a beer with our meal - another great day, will be cold tonight down to 4 degrees - oh dear I am struggling with the cold. Good news is the weather is warmer from now on.

Day 3 Tooleybuc to Marker 1266

I was awake early, there was a rooster announcing the day not far away and bird chorus not long after. Simon reckons there were dogs barking and a woman shouting last night but I didn’t hear any of that. I am able to sleep anytime and after solid day paddling nothing could keep me awake.

We packed and wandered down to the General Store to buy salad rolls for lunch. I also got a pie for breakfast and a coffee. Simon got a pie and an orange juice for breakfast. It saved me having to break out the pots and pans to make coffee to have with muesli which is our breakfast when we camp out.

Simon was faffing about trying to find the key to amenities which he needed to return before we left. In the end he gave up and went off to the dunny before we headed over to the boat ramp. He came back with a big grin on his face. Apparently the key fell out when he dropped his dax. Not sure where he was keeping it. In any case he was relieved!

It was a lovely sunny morning although the wind was cold as it has been so far on this trip. After Tooleybuc for most of the morning the river twists and turns constantly. After km we were anticipating “Bitch and Pups” otherwise known as Cochran’s Bend which has a reputation for being difficult - not today though as we past it without realising it. Shortly after we pulled up on a beach for our 1st salad roll. We had paddled 16 km in the first 2 hours so we were on schedule.

After break we paddled on, the river continued to twist and turn through lovely river bends. There were quite a few fisherman about and we had brief conversations with them as we passed. Just on 12.30 we reached the junction of the Wakool River, a beautiful spot. Simon thought of buying NSW real estate and was considering looking at listings when he gets home. I could probably sell him a sandbar!

It was an ideal spot for lunch. We put up our chairs and sat back to enjoy our 2nd salad roll and a couple of biscuits. We had good rest before setting off again.

The afternoon began to drag as we couldn’t find a suitable campsite until something after the time we had agreed to finish. Eventually we found a nice beach on the NSW side and decided to camp there. It was very windy.

Wildlife today: Birds - not as much as the previous days although this ibis was unconcerned as I drifted past with my camera.

Day 2 - Marker 1364 (Vinfera Forest Reserve) to Tooleybuc

Simon was up packing earlier than me, it was cold and the sun was still below the trees. I got him to put the water on to boil for coffee before I emerged.  Muesli and coffee for breakfast. Packing up accomplished we launched about 7.30 am.

Our first destination was Nyah only 8 km down the river. It didn’t take long although the bridge outside town fooled me until i realised there was a bridge further on. We found the boat ramp which was just below a magnificent sport ground. There was a large oval with a turf cricket pitch that was surrounded by a trotting Track. There were a couple of trotters going around. On one GrandPa was taking his grandchild in the sulky.

After making use of the amenities we headed for the shops - only 2 here a post office/general store and a service station and store. We went to both but bought sandwiches at the servo. It was brighter and more spacious compared to other. Simon has a good chat with the proprietor who lamented being screwed by BP in his previous venture.

Back at the kayaks we paddled onto Wood Wood where we got out to eat our sandwiches. There was a neat park next to boat ramp. Ironically the picnic furniture at Wood Wood is made of plastic. We were already halfway to our destination for the day.

The afternoon was fine and sunny and we shortened the distance with a shortcut at Murphy’s island that saved us 4 km. This meant we were adjacent to Piangel very quickly but didn’t see it. Shortly after we reached Tooleybuc. There was boat ramp marked on the map but we couldn’t see it. We pulled in below the town park and walked into the caravan park where Steve gave us a powered site for  $20. He also told where the boat ramp was so we went back to the river and put the kayaks on  trolleys and and dragged them into the caravan park.

I went for a jog while Simon was showering. Behind the town there were acres of grapevines. Further out I got confronted by an aggressive dog, fortunately I was able to grab a handful of gravel that I threw towards it and it took off.

Back at Tooleybuc I showered and rinsed out my shirt. Dinner was at the Tooleybuc Sporting Club.

Wildlife sighted today: An eagle close by with a fish and another swimming snake. Not so many birds today although I did see some rosellas and kookaburras.

Swan Hill to Mildura - Day 1 - 5th November 2017

Simon and I left Melbourne yesterday afternoon and drove to Lake Boga where we camped at the back of the lake. The campsite was great with good clean amenities. We went to the pub for dinner, had a couple of beers. We both had Pasta Carbonara for dinner (mistake - we will eat a lot of pasta over the next 2 weeks) and then headed back to our tents for an early night. When I got up to pee in the middle of the night the full moon was lighting the campsite very brightly.

This morning we exited the tents and packed up around 6.30 am and then did the short drive to Swan Hill. First stop was the supermarket to get supplies, then breakfast in a bakery cafe before driving down to the river.

We unloaded the kayaks at the canoe launching steps. Last year when we arrived in Swan Hill the river was much higher and we had the kayaks at level 7.Today we were loading the kayaks at level 1.

It took a while to pack the gear in the kayaks. I was pleased with myself that I got in it all in. It Takes a bit of juggling to get it all to fit. Once the kayaks were loaded I drove the car around to the V-Line car park. Hopefully it will still be there next week.

We launched the kayaks and paddled beneath the bridge. We made good progress as the river is flowing nicely. Judging distance has been difficult because many of the blue distance markers are missing. We stopped for lunch after 2 and half hours. Actually we stopped for a snack but it ended up being lunch. Soup and a hard boiled egg.

After lunch we paddled around Beveridge Island forgoing a shortcut via an anabranch. We made another stop and ate another hard boiled egg because the Scotch Finger biscuits were too difficult to extract from the kayak.

We paddled on until after 4.00 pm and stopped after 46 km. As the banks are high and steep we debated going on further but I thought there was no guarantee it would be any better further on. We had found a lovely site above a bend in the river. We chatted to a couple of young guys who were riding scramble bikes. One was an agonomist working in Swan Hill whose family has a property at Boundary Bend where we will be in a couple of days.

Dinner was sardines and pasta.

Wildlife sightings today: lots of ducks, pelicans, a few grey herons, egrets, a couple of spoonbills, some rufous night herons, lots of cockatoos and some small kites? Also 2 snakes, 1 in the grass where  we had lunch. It took off when Simon stood up, its movement caught my attention otherwise we would not have seen it. The other snake was swimming across the river straight towards my kayak. Unfortunately I didn’t get a picture because I was mesmerised watching it and then I was paddling to get out of its way.