Thursday, January 8, 2015

Postscript to the 1st leg of our Murray River journey

Tony's kayak has fully recovered, a credit to the kayak manufacturer and the time and effort Tony put into reshaping the hull. He also had to plastic weld the hole in the side where the crease had pinched.

Simon and I were happy and tired at the end but already looking forward to other adventures. The next leg of the journey is expected to be in November 2015 but may be earlier if circumstances permit. Joe Lionnet

Friday, January 2, 2015

Day 6 Elvish Island to Lake Hume Holiday Village (40 km)

Our last morning of the trip was overcast. Unlike the day before the wind was behind us now. The previous evening we thought we could see the Wymah ferry ahead in the distance. As we paddled towards it turned out to be further than we thought and what we could see was a house. Before long we were past the cable ferry and were negotiating areas with lots of dead trees.



At one point there was a tree with a very large nest. Simon wanted to see the bird that made the nest but it appeared to have been abandoned.



As lunch approached it started to heat up. The cloud had cleared and we could see lots of condensation trails from planes on the Melbourne Sydney flight path.


We pulled up around a point on the lake confident of our navigation but when we set off again we went in the wrong direction. After speaking with some fishermen we discovered we had overshot the turnoff to Hume Weir by 3 or 4 kilometers.

After backtracking we found ourselves heading toward the finish but not before we pulled up and had a swim.


The final stretch toward and under the Bethanga Bridge seemed to take forever. The detail of the bridge gradually filled in as we approached and we started to hear trucks driving over it. As we closed on the bridge Simon was ahead so I raced to catch up however he slowed to get a picture as we reached the bridge. Shortly after we finished near the weir at the holiday village.

Final night was pizza and beer. Lets just say that Joe is far quicker at eating pizza but Simon is ahead in the beer drinking stakes.

What will the rest of the Murray hold for us? Hopefully not a lot more willows.

Day 5 Burrowye Reserve, Murray River to Elvish Island, Lake Hume ( 40 km)

The 1st few hours this morning we were paddling anticipating arriving on Lake Hume. The river gradually widened and we were probably in the upper reaches of the Lake although the countryside was still riverine and Simon would not agree that we were on the lake until it looked like a lake.


At one point we pulled over for morning tea on sandy edge below a higher river bank. While we were there a couple of cars suddenly arrived on top of the bank. The family of the property owner had come down to the river to fish at the very spot where we had pulled up.


After that we pushed on and found ourselves on the lake itself. We paddled on until lunchtime which we had on a lakeside field that had both pelicans and sheep grazing.


Our 1st potential stealth campsite offered some protection from the elements but Simon wasn’t happy so we paddled on. Simon’s comment about this campsite "If it looks like rocky ground and feels like rocky ground you can better your bottom dollar it will be rocky when you go to lie down on it" (What a softy!!).

The wind picked up and we had to push hard into the wind. Although we had been paddling for a long way it was good to work into the wind. we must be getting a bit fitter at this kayak business.

Following the map we pushed up the north side of the lake until our progress was blocked by a mud bank connected to an island. We turned back and paddled around the other before deciding the wind was too strong and we should pitch out tents on the island.



There wasn’t much protection but the wind dropped later and the island turned into the best campsite of the trip. To send messages to our families we did have to climb up to the highest part of the island.



The almost full moon above the lake with hundreds of dead trees was a beautiful evening scene.


Day 4 – Jingellic to Burrowye Reserve (45 km by river)

Immediately on launching this morning we had to negotiate the gravel race just under the bridge. We dragged the boats past and launched downstream. There was a series of gravel races which we were surprised by as we had been told there were none below Jingellic. It's seems to be the kayak version of “non-cyclists” advice where you are told the road is flat only to find there is bloody big hill!


There were a couple of moments of drama, there were some rapids that we went over because that was where the current took us and there was a gravel race where we were both tipped out when the current split and then rejoined further down. Our kayaks are vulnerable to tipping when hit side on by the current. I was tipped out and looked up to see Simon heading straight at me then he was tipped out too. So the score to date, Simon 3 capsizes, Joe 2 and Tony 1. Unfortunately for Simon each time he went over he seemed to loose something. Any one seen a pair of sun glasses or any number of drink bottles.


It was a long day and it seem to take forever to paddle to our destination. Our original plan was to have lunch at Burrowye Reserve but this ended being our eventual campsite.
Our actual lunch spot was just past a riverside property where we yelled out to a man tidying in the garden. He told us we were at Tamalmo. We later found that Tamalmo Station covers about 14 km of the northern bank of the river.

The lunch spot was picturesque gravel bend in the river. The willows covering the river banks made the scene very serene.

We reached Burrowye late in the afternoon. There were a couple of young Asian girls fishing from the bank when we pulled up and showed them our map to confirm our location. Apparently it was their 1st time fishing and they were not quite sure what they were doing.

We set up our tents away from their camp and then dragged our kayaks up the beach. This was an ideal camp spot. You could come and stay here for a holiday, just sitting back and reading a book after a good day paddling.


Later in the evening we had a chat with a woman who brought 2 horses down to the river to drink. She lived on a local farm and as able to tell us about growing up in the area.

Day 3 – Tintaldra to Jingellic (45 km by river 10 km as the crow flies)

It was chilly overnight and we woke to a foggy morning. The campfire from last night was still smouldering and was brought back to life. We stood around drinking our coffee and chatting until it was time to head back to the river.

Much of the paddling today was similar to the previous day. Cautiously approaching river bends and gravel races and enjoying the beautiful scenery. At one point I took a series of photos of Simon coming downstream towards me. Unfortunately when I put the camera back in the day hatch I didn’t close the dry bag. This meant that when I was tipped out a few minutes later my camera and 2 mobile phones drowned.

The drama happened where the river narrowed and rushed between 2 willows. As I went through the current forced the kayak against some branches which caused me to tip out. The kayak became caught up but fortunately I had hung on and was able to kick it clear and then float downstream with to a gravel bank. Simon came through unscathed even though he did practice his backward paddling style and helped me tip the water out and we continued on.



Eventually we reached a caravan park near Walwa where we pulled out hoping to find some lunch. Unfortunately the office was closed which meant no can of coke for Simon and we were left to our limited supplies. We were only 5 km short of Jingellic so we pushed on and shortly after sighted the old bridge pylons and then the pub. It is a picturesque spot and the pub was excellent. The campground out front was free of charge and well populated with grey nomads.


Day 2 – Farrer’s Lookout to Tintaldra (35 km by river 8 km as the crow flies)

It took a while for Tony to get to us in the morning as he had to wait until he could get petrol. Once he arrived and we had finished packing I towed his kayak over to the other side where he hauled up it the bank to his car. A bit like the solo man only back to front.


Simon and I then set out for Tintaldra. It was a beautiful sunny morning and the scenery was gorgeous. Every bend in the river revealed a new vista with mountain backdrops.

For about an hour we had Pine Mountain in view. It is a monolith 1.5 times the size of Uluru although not as spectacular as it does not dominate the landscape.




We paddled for a couple of hours before taking a break on a gravel race in a river bend. We has some boiled eggs and some muesli bars. Our thanks must go Tony who supplied most of the supplies. Who would have thought 12 boiled eggs would go that far. We were still eating them on the last day.



After the break we paddled on until we eventually sighted the Tintaldra Bridge where Tony was waiting for us. We hauled the kayaks out and made our way to the caravan park. A great little park. Can't imagine how they would make any money as they only charged us a few dollars to stay the night. Tony decided not to stay so he headed off to visit friends in Benalla on his way home.

Simon and I wandered up to the General Store where 85 year old Betty had opened the shop so we could purchase some drinks. The store was part museum and had a fantastic position above a bend in the river. Betty told us that when she moved to Tintaldra with her husband 40 years earlier there, had been no willows on the banks of the Murray. Now there is scarcely 50 metres of bank that doesn't have a willow in it.
Weekly Times article about Betty Walton of Tintaldra General Store


Simon wanted his picture taken next to this flood marker. Not sure why?

Back at the caravan park we met some interesting characters. One was an itinerant candle seller who lived in his van and spent time fishing along the river. Another was a Kiwi mural artist who spends half his year in the Himalayas.



We had pasta and sardines for dinner (for those of you who are avid readers of Joe and Tony’s cycle touring blogs you will know that sardines are a staple part of the diet) despite discovering that we could purchase a Bbq and salad dinner pack from the caravan park. Simon was amused at the look on my face which registered disappointment on that discovery. Simon did mention something about me being a vegetarian. In the interests of accuracy I am pescatarian although when on these trips I do eat meat as in many places non-meat meals can be hard to find.

Day 1 – Towong to Ferrar’s Lookout (13 km by river 5 km as the crow flies)

Yesterday was spent travelling between Melbourne and Albury. Eventually all 3 of us were
at Towong camped in a nice riverside park. We headed into Corryong for dinner at the pub.

This morning we were up early and dragged the kayaks down to the river under the Towong
Bridge. Another bloke came down to see us off and to offer advice. Fortunately we launched
without drama into the fast running current.

We quickly discovered that this was no gentle paddle in a quiet stream. The Murray at this
point is an Alpine stream with strong current, shallow gravel races and deep bends with
willows waiting to tip you out of your kayak.

45 minutes into the trip Simon was tipped out on a river bend and had to drag his kayak to 
the shore before relaunching. Shortly after he was swept into some willows on a river bend 
and had to bail out again. This time I had recover his kayak and tow it back to him. I had my 
drama too as I got turned around in the current when my kayak got caught on a branch. 
After this we made good progress until Tony tried to go around a submerged tree in a river 
bend near Ferrar's lookout. At the last moment he tried to go in front of the tree and got 
sideways to the current which tipped him out and pinned his kayak against a submerged 
branch. He was able to scramble onto a the tree stump to safety only after getting his PFD caught on the rudder of the kayak with the pressure of the full river current trying to push him under.
.
 Simon and I were some way behind Tony so we were not able to provide any assistance initially. We were able to get a rope to Tony using my paddle float launched upstream so that the current took it to him. By this time the kayak was bent in two. Tony tried to dislodge the kayak from the tree but although he managed to move it it remained stuck in the tree. Eventually he jumped into the river behind the tree and allowed it to take him downstream to the bank.


We made a number of unsuccessful attempts to recover the kayak. Noticing there was rain on the horizon I set up my tent and boiled the hilly for some cups of soup. We took cover while it rained before making another attempts to recover the kayak. It became obvious to us that without a 2nd rope we were destined for failure so Tony rang the local police for assistance.


Shortly after a police van appeared on the other side of the river. Unfortunately the policeman (Troy ) couldn't get to us from that side so he had to drive around to the other side. This was quite inaccessible and he couldn't find his way so he rang a local farmer (Matthew) for assistance.


Matthew found us after riding around on his scramble bike. He still had to walk around a kilometer to get to us. He was then able to direct the Troy to where we were. Once we had an extra rope we were able to drag Tony upstream in my kayak to his marooned kayak where he was able to able to attach the 2nd rope. It was then possible pull the kayak free. This was mainly due to the work of Matthew who could be best described as a strong country lad.


Matthew was also telling us that the river was low at the moment as there was no call for electricity in the big towns so they weren't releasing any water. Apparently they need a spell of hot weather to drive electricity demand for Snowy Hydro to start their turbines.


It was clear Tony wouldn't be able to continue as his kayak had borne the full force of the Murray river so he was driven back to his car by Troy. Troy also mentioned that it was not uncommon to lose kayaks and small boats in this part of the Murray. Food for thought but the scenery was too good to stop the trip before it had really begun. It was now 5.00 pm so Simon and I set up camp.

While we waited for Tony to return Simon and I undid the seat bolts and engaged in some panel beating to straighten the kayak (we jumped up and down no real science). For various reasons Tony wasn't able to return until the next morning. I suggested that he come to the other side of the river and I would tow the kayak over.