Yarrawonga to Tom's Beach - 5th November 2015

It was raining when we awoke so we decided to head into town for breakfast. Pam and Geoff had decided they just wanted to get on with it so we helped them launch from the ramp just below the weir.

After toasties and coffee for breakfast we decide to launch. The current was good near the weir and we made good progress although it was windy and wet at times.

I pulled out a plastic poncho to keep the rain off, it made me look like a late participant in Halloween!

The weather improved and we had a good day of paddling. Along the way there were some high banks and in many places there were trees just waiting to topple in the water. 

These days the snags are left in the river to provide habitat for native fish whereas in the past they were removed to improve navigation. The result is that the mighty Murray Cod is making a comeback. All the way from Albury we have seen many thousands of fallen trees at the waters edge. In some narrow places we have had to paddle through very carefully although below Yarrawonga the river is wider.

At the end of the day we found a nice campsite near the 1936 marker. The map shows this to be Toms Beach. Tony and I were amused that Simon decided to put his kayak on its trolley and drag it up to where we were setting up our tents rather than unload and and carry gear back and forwards.

We had covered another 50 km and  and we were still on track to reach Echuca on time.

Across Lake Mulwala to Yarrawonga - 4th November 2015I

Some serious navigation was required today to find our way onto the lake and through the fields of dead trees. Early in the morning we passed Bundalong where the Ovens river joins the Murray. It is a pretty spot with some lovely houses lining the banks.

Following the course of the old river we found ourselves on Lake Mulwala just as the wind started to rise. It was okay while we were in the river proper but once we were out in the open it was uncomfortable. While working our way through the channels we came across a marker that wasn't on the map.

With the lake chopping up Simon wanted to head closer to shore while I preferred to stay in the channel away from the tree stumps. So we compromised and stayed in the channel until Simon thought it was time for a rest and we headed to shore. I was not happy being bounced around in the waves with tree stumps breaking through the surface every few metres.

Eventually we found a boat ramp and pulled out for a break. While we rested we wandered up the road a short way and saw a black snake crossing the road. I went closer to get a better view. Unfortunately my camera was still in the kayak.

After the break we paddled around the lake's edge to Yarrawonga and pulled up near the Water Park. This time it was Simon who dismounted from his kayak badly and managed to take on a fair bit of water. The onshore wind was pushing waves up against the shoreline. We dragged the kayaks up onto the grass and then went to the main street in search of lunch. We had some toasted sandwiches at a cafe called "Sourdough and Coffee". Both the sandwiches and the coffee were excellent.

After lunch we visited to the Tourist Bureau and found out where the caravan park was. They offered us the use of a ute to help move the boats but we thought it would be easier to use our trailers. Then we went and dragged the fully loaded kayaks on their trolleys the 1.5 km to the caravan park. Tony arrived just after we got there and we booked into a small cabin. We then went to the supermarket to stock up for the next few days.

Back at the cabin our neighbour told us there were some other paddlers in a cabin nearby and shortly after we met Pam and Geoff Roberts who were going to paddle from Yarrawonga to Mildura over the next month.

Fish and Chips for dinner.

Corowa to a bend in the river near marker 2028 - 3rd November 2015

After a good meal and a good nights sleep we seemed to have recovered fully from our weariness and  we paddled out of Corowa around 7.00 am. The water skiers that annoyed us yesterday were still in bed. We admired some of the waterfront houses along the river going out of Corowa.

We decided to have regular rest stops every 2 hours at Simon's suggestion as he felt our tiredness yesterday was due to having having paddled for 4 hours without a break. This was a good idea and we maintained this practice for the rest of the trip.

Today was the 1st time we really had to navigate. As we got closer to Lake Mulwala there were a number of branches to the river. True to form I had printed the wrong page of the map and there was a section missing that was required. I rang Lisa to tell her and she took a photo of the correct page and sent it to me. Luckily it didn't matter because I didn't get the picture until the next day. Typical Vodaphone!

Toward the end of the day we found a campsite on a bend in the river near marker 2028. It was a lovely spot although previous campers had left some rubbish included a broken folding canvas shade shelter. We were to see a few of these left by the river over the rest of the trip. Disappointing that people don't remove their rubbish and a sign that these folding canvas shelters are not robust enough for camping.

We had a 3 course evening meal, Cup-a-soup, savoury rice and chocolate. Later I was able to lie in the tent listening to the birds and seeing the Southern Cross low on the horizon.

Police Paddocks to Corowa - 2nd November 2015

We decided to delay departure to allow our gear to dry out. Simon's gear was quite wet because rain water had pooled under his tent and seeped through the floor during the night. We had breakfast and Nigel offered me a cup of tea. Eventually we thanked our hosts and headed for our kayaks but not before getting a picture of Ross' hot water service.

This was constructed from an old beer keg and had a pipe that ran from the keg through a copper coil in the campfire and back to the keg. It also has a pump that was connected to a car battery to circulate the water.

The hot water service

We launched about 9.30 am and paddled to Corowa about 30 km away. Just as we arrived we passed a bloke we had seen earlier at the campsite paddling in the opposite direction. We couldn't work out how he got there before us without overtaking us. He said he had taken an anabranch. Being younger and very fit and carrying no cargo he was faster than us.

By the time we got to Corowa we were both feeling quite tired probably due to the heat and not having stopped for a break. Pulling up on the beach near the carpark I (Joe) was clumsy getting out of the kayak in front of an audience of parents and kids. How embarrassing!

We booked into the caravan park and then went shopping for a new tent pole for Simon as he had broken his. Sadly there was no joy in the 2 stores with camping gear. I had a metal sleeve so he was able to make a temporary repair using that and some duct tape.

In the evening we went to the pub for dinner. Simon's 1st beer did not touch the sides! So he had another and then a third for good measure. It was a very enjoyable meal.

Richardsons Bend to Police Paddocks - 1st November 2015

We awoke to the sound of birdsong and a clear sky however the rain radar promised rain so we had a muesli bar, packed up and launched around 7.00 am. It started raining and we endured 2 heavy showers before it cleared away.

This picture was taken during a heavy shower and shows a rainbow over the river. 

We pulled over to a sandy bank and made breakfast. I boiled some water for coffee and we ate muesli as we dried out. The rest of the morning was sunny and warm. As we passed Doolans Bend we met a family group who were just setting out in their kayaks. They were paddling to Howlong the next town on the river. We had a nice chat with the parents. They were paddling in a mix of kayaks and I felt a bit sorry for the kid in the "sit on" trying to keep up with the parents in Daggers.

We left them behind and reached Howlong by lunchtime. The riverside park was lovely and my map seemed to indicate that we could camp there. We walked into town to buy some pies and coke at the bakery across the road from the pub in the photo.

When we walked back to the river we discovered that there were "No Camping" signs at entrance to the park. Oh well it too early to stop anyway!

After checking the map we decided to aim for Shaw's Flat. As the afternoon wore on there was lots of lightning and thunder. Just before 4.00 pm I told Simon that I thought we should pull off the river however he thought we could still reach Shaw's Flat. Then it started to rain....heavily.....!!

We pulled off the river at a spot where there were some people camping in caravans and tents. I quickly wandered over and asked if they minded us camping there. Ross and Chris, and Nigel and Joan and the kids and Nelson and Tanner the dogs made us very welcome under the shelter of their canvas awning as it bucketed down for the next 2 and half hours. After that we were able to set up our tents.

Ross and his family camp at this spot regularly and were very gracious even offering us dinner. Their camping was very civilised, cheese and bickies with wine for Joe and beer for Simon before dinner then spaghetti bolognaise. Joe had 2 helpings and some wine.  Later we sat around the fire for a while before heading to bed. 48 km covered for the day and a free meal, an excellent day!! 

Albury to Richardsons Bend - October 31st 2015

Simon and I set out from Melbourne on Saturday morning in order to resume our journey down the Murray River. Tony is joining us from Yarrawonga.

Although the weather was fine as we left home it was raining steadily when we reached Albury 3 hours later. We went to Noruiel Park to see the "put in" point. The river was flowing quite fast and we decided to hold off launching until the rain stopped. We went into the shopping plaza for lunch and kept an eye on the rain radar. By 2.00 pm the rain was clearing away and we went back to the river to unload the kayaks and gear. I took my car to the railway car park and then walked back to the river.

The river seemed to have slowed a little and we launched without drama and quickly passed the 2192 distance marker. These markers show the distance to the river mouth at Goolwa. Unfortunately despite appearing on my map many of these signs have disappeared, occasionally they are in the wrong spot and sometimes they are there but not shown on the map. They are very useful in confirming where you are on the river. The 2192 marker was upside down. I managed to get both Simon and the marker in the picture. The markers gave us an indication of our travelling speed. At this stage we were hurtling down the mighty Murray at about 8 km per hour. It had been 12 months since our last leg. Joe was the only one of us still working fulltime. Tony's kayak had made a remarkable recovery after the incident last year and we are much more experienced paddlers.

Although the weather remained overcast we were able to paddle until 6.00 pm before pulling off the river at Richardsons Bend after 33 km. Richardsons Bend is a Parks Victoria camping ground. We had to scramble up the bank as there was only a narrow spot at river level.

The top of the bank was being revegetated so we had to set up our tents about 30 metres from the river. We could see some other campers nearby but there was no one about. We discovered a boat ramp and more campers a bit further down the river the next day.

We had our evening meal of pasta and sardines in tomato sauce before heading for bed. It was a lovely evening and the sky was full of stars later in the night.

A trip on the Gippsland Lakes - Sale to Lakes Entrance

With Simon on annual leave and Tony enjoying retirement the opportunity for another paddling expedition arose at short notice. Fortunately my boss allowed me to take a week off despite having already approving 5 weeks away from late May. Unfortunately the logistics off taking the kayaks up to the Murray and Tony's social obligations meant that paddling the next leg of the Murray wasn't practical so we decided to tick off another item on my kayaking " to do" list.

The Gippsland Lakes are Australia's largest network of inland water and have been a favourite destination for 30 years. My first experiences there were with friends I worked with in the 1980s. We used to hire yachts and spent long weekends sailing out of Metung and Paynesville. Lisa and I also had sailing trips down there before we had children.


Last year Tony, Simon and I had our 1st weekend paddling trip on the Lakes over the Labour Day weekend. A year later our plans are more ambitious, we are going to paddle from Sale on the Latrobe River to Lakes Entrance.

Simon and I drove to Lakes Entrance in separate cars. We left my car parked next to the Tourist Bureau in Lakes Entrance and then drove back to Sale. Tony will join us after Day 1.

Day 1 Port of Sale to Marlay Point, Lake Wellington

Although we were up early we were in no hurry to get going. We walked up to the shopping centre to find breakfast at a cafe. There was nothing open in Sale but eventually we found a cafe that had just opened its doors for the day. Simon had bacon and eggs and I had scrambled eggs and mushrooms.

We went back to the caravan park and packed up the tents and loaded the kayaks with gear. Then we dragged the kayaks on their trolleys down to the boat ramp in the Port of Sale. At 9.55 am we launched and we were on our way down the Latrobe river in lovely sunshine. The river bank is lined with eucalypts and plenty of dense foliage.

We passed a rower and his coach in a tinnie as we paddled. We frequently saw fish jumping and past lost of anglers. We also saw some cyclists at one point where there must be a bike path.

After 6 km we went under the Swing bridge where the Latrobe meets the Thomson river. From here the river turns east. It was very pleasant paddling. We encountered a convoy of cruisers at one point which seemed to create a swell that lingered long after they past.

After 2.5 hours paddling we found a boat ramp and pulled out for some lunch. While we were there a young bloke and his grandfather pulled up in a runabout. We enjoyed watching the interaction of grandpa and grandson as they got there boat onto its trailer. They had been preparing a bird hide for the opening of the duck shooting season in a fortnight. Grandpa was bit stiff in the joints and slow moving but he could still back a trailer very smartly.

Another boat also arrived. The skippers wife struggled to get a rope around a post. She didn't want my help though and there was some chatter between her and her husband. She seemed to think it was his fault but I wasn't so sure.

After lunch we launched back into the river and quickly discovered Lake Wellington just around the corner. In the river we were well protected from the wind but once on the lake we were hit with a strong westerly wind. We turned into it and paddled hard for about 20 minutes to get the the protection of the western shoreline.

We paddled along the shoreline for about 20 minutes which included a drift past a mob of pelicans so we could get some pictures.

I was lucky enough to catch one pelican just as it took off. The camera captured just as it left the water.

We realized Marlay Point, our destination was off to our right and the shortest way was to cut across the bay. At first we raced along with the wind behind us but as we got further out the swell picked up.

We 30 minutes in 1-1.5 metre swell and were just a little concerned not to get side-on to the waves. Eventually past around Marlay Point and were able to turn toward the campsite arriving about 3.30 pm after 26 km.

Our campsite was just above the water overlooking the lake to east. 

At night the sky was very clear and we could see the Milky Way. Excellent end to a great day kayaking.

Day 2 - Marlay Point, Lake Wellington to Talia Point , Lake Victoria

Although we were wake early we took our time packing up as we were waiting for Tony to arrive. We had a long chat with a bloke from northern NSW who also kayaks. Tony arrived at 9.30 am a little earlier than expected and we were on the water at 9.50 am.

Crossing Lake Wellington was a challenge that concerned me mots on this trip. Wellington is notorius for blowing up very quickly and can be very dangerous for small craft. Fortunately on this morning there was no wind.

We agreed to skirt the northern shoreline rather than paddle directly across. In the ned we cut some corners and reached Plover Point after 3 hours. As we approached we struggled to spot the lead-in markers for the entrance to McLennan Strait. My map showed  showed 4 red markers and 1 green however we spotted 2 red initially and found the green was actually inside the entrance. 

We pulled up on sandy shore just near the entrance and enjoyed cheese and crackers, a hard-boiled egg and a muesli bar for lunch.

We spent 90 minutes paddling down the Strait to Hollands Landing. We saw lots of birds including pelicans, herons and cormorants. There was also some terns that hovered and then dived vertically at the water.

The shop and caravan park at Hollands Landing has closed. Simon and I were disappointed as were looking forward to a shower after 2 days of paddling. 

We decided to continue onto Lake Victoria to find a campsite on Spoon Bay. After an hour of paddling we pulled up on a shelly beach near Talia Point. As it was 4.30 pm it was time to set up camp.

Dinner was Cup-A-Soup, Shapes and pasta with sardines followed by some dark chocolate. There were lots of mosquitoes so it was a early night in the tent.

 Day 3 - Talia Point to Paynesville

Last night we decided to paddle down to Lochsport before breakfast hence we were on the water early despite boiling the billy for coffee and then taking too long to pack up.

We arrived at the Lochsport Yacht Club jetty after an hour. At the general store/petrol station we were directed to the supermarket a kilometer away. Lochsport seems to have grown a lot since last time I visited and seems more attractive as a holiday destination.

Back at the jetty we wandered over to the yacht club seeking water to replenish our supply. There was a committee meeting going on however we were welcomed in for a cup of tea and a chat. We declined the tea and bickies but enjoyed 20 minutes chatting with the committee members. The next day the club was hosting 70 paddlers from the Sale to Sea Disability Challenge.

Back on the water we paddled down Lake Victoria aiming for Sperm Whale Head. By 1.00 pm we were still well short so we pulled up on sandy spit near Trouser Point for lunch.

Hard to believe that we get to these beautiful places all to ourselves. Kayaks definitely allow us to get to places that most people will never see..

After lunch the wind picked up and we were assisted by a gentle swell that pushed us along. Nearing Sperm Whale Head we were seduced by the attraction of Paynesville and our need to shower after 3 days paddling so we altered course.

Half way across Lake Victoria Tony and I noticed that Simon had drifted further down the lake and was not paddling strongly. It seemed that he would missed the entrance to Paynesville.  We paddled down to him to see if he was okay. In cycling terminology he had "bonked" and had run out of energy. I had a sachet of peanut butter in my life-jacket which he ate and then we paddled to Paynesville together.

I used my phone to find and book into a caravan park. We had to drag our kayaks up the hill to the Resthaven Caravan Park. It was very neat and compact with good facilities. We enjoyed hot showers despite signs suggesting that the hot water was not working.

We finished the day with a beer at the Old Pub and then ate fish and chips.

Day 4 - Paynesville to Metung

I had the best sleep of the trip so far. It seems my body is getting used to sleeping on the sleeping mat on the ground. It was cooler and we woke to the news that Simon had decided to catch the bus back to Bairnsdale and then catch the train to his car. He felt he hadn't recovered enough from yesterday. We did offer him the option of shorter day over to Bunga Arm and to spend the rest of the day relaxing but he decided to stick to his pla. We were disappointed for him but there will be other opportunities to explore this part of the lakes in future.

Tony and I packed up and dragged our kayaks down the hill to the beach near Progress jetty and then went to the bakery and bought some sandwiches to take with us for lunch. Instead of going over to Bunga Arm we decided to exit Payneville on the Lake King side and paddle alongside Raymond Island. It only took an hour to get to Point King. We we amused to see a yacht putting up its sails, almost go the wrong side of a marker and the fall slowly behind in the very light wind as we paddled a more direct route.

From Point King we aimed for the entrance to the Tambo river however I misjudged its position because I hadn't checked the map. My mistake meant we were about 2 kilometers south of the entrance.Our paddle across Lake King had been very pleasant and calm but after a few minutes on the beach the wind picked up significantly causing a big waves to be pushed up.

Instead of heading up to the Tambo we decided to run to Metung around Tambo Bluff. There was now a rolling swell and we were bouncing around. Tony opted for an inshore route while I prefer to further out relying on my sailor's instinct not to be caught on a lee shore. Once around the bluff the swell was consistent and it was not unpleasant being bounced around. Closer to Metung I was able to use the swell to bring me around to the entrance to Bancroft Bay.

While out on the water I tried to keep an eye on Tony. As we sit very low on the water it was hard to spot him in the waves and concentrate on my own paddling. Fortunately neither of us trouble and we came around Shaving Point close together and then pulled up near the Metung Pub.

We went to the Tourist Office to find accommodation. The bloke there said there was no campsites in Metung but to try the pub for a cheap room. Unfortunately the pub had no rooms available so we have to go elsewhere. As we were leaving the pub I ran into James and Winnie Kong who I worked with in the 1980s. James also sailed with me on the Lakes many times. It was great to catch up.

Tony and I ended up at Metung Waters (motel?), a bit upmarket for us but we were happy as the weather had turned cooler. After showering and putting on fresh clothes we BBQ'd sausages for lunch on the electric BBQs in the park near the Pub.

Later we walked around to Chinaman's Creek past the old mineral spa site. Annoyingly we discovered we could have free camped there as it is an official RV stop. Pity the tourism guy didn't know this or maybe his job is promoting the paid accommodation.

Day 5 - Metung to Lakes Entrance

I was awake early and anxious to get going early. The retired gentleman was a bit slower having gotten used to lying in. Never less we were on the water at 8.00 am after dragging the kayaks around to Shaving Point.

The morning was grey and cool but the wind had dropped and Bancroft Bay was calm as we paddled away from Metung around Mosquito Point. Cunningham Arm is particularly beautiful with the green hills on the north side overlooking the water. We passed Nungurner and Nyeramilang before passing between Fraser Island and Rigby Island to get over to Barrier Landing. Once there we pulled out and walked over the sand dune to see the 90 mile beach and just a short distance away "the Entrance" to the lakes.
There surf was rolling in in clean waves.

Paying heed to the current we paddled back between to the island to Cunningham Arm so we could paddle down the north side towards lake Entrance. We did not need to worry as the current was weak and we turned into North Arm and past Bullock Island without any excitement.

A short paddle and our trip was over