Day 7 – Marker 1462 to Swan Hill – 52 km

5.14 am Simon bangs on the tent! He wants to make an early start. I knew he was awake because I could hear him playing on his phone. All I wanted to hear was the sound of the forest waking up. I managed to lie in a bit longer before getting up and starting to pack up.

We were on the water paddling at 6.20 am our earliest start of the trip. A hot day is forecast so we wanted to get to Swan Hill early. Despite our record long day yesterday (covered 64 km) we were moving along nicely and after 2 hours had covered 16 km. There wasn’t a good “Get Out” so we kept paddling eventually finding a spot for a quick break. It was on the inside of a bend and has had water run through from the river. Behind it was a billabong area that has plenty of water.

After the break we paddled on looking for a “get out” when we passed a big house boat and were waved to by Donna and Steve. They are from Mannum, SA and have bought the houseboat to live on. Unfortunately they have had some bad luck, engine problems and broken steering. On the lucky side they were able land the boat despite the loss of steering and the locals have given them assistance. We had a nice chat and have exchanged photos.

Donna and Steve

Donna took a couple of photos of us and as we were leaving I remembered my camera was in the pocket of my PFD so I asked to take a picture. Donna had disappeared inside. Steve said "Donna has just gone to get out of her nightie, do you still want a picture?" I told him there was no diplomatic answer to that.

We stopped for lunch on a levee bank that bordered a cattle paddock. The cattle came over to have a look. They weren’t impressed with what they saw so they didn’t get too close. Actually I think they were unimpressed with cheese and crackers again.

After lunch we only had 12 km left to paddle to Swan Hill. The landscape had changed from forest to paddocks and was much drier. It was also getting hot so we were happy to arrive in Swan Hill. We couldn’t find a boat ramp at the caravan park however there were canoe launching steps just 200 metres further. We landed on Level 7 (with level 1 being the lowest) and wandered into the park office and checked in. Then we walked around to the Vline office to find out about buses to Echuca.

I grumbled  the lady taking bookings enquired if I had a “seniors card”. She said her husband had one and I responded “he must be a cradle snatcher”. She suggested she should put “Smart Alec” on the booking but grinned just the same.

I took off on my bus trip to Echuca at about 4.30 and arrived back with my car at 9.30 pm. Simon had a lazy afternoon including a swim in the caravan park pool. After arriving back we shared a beer or two or three and some cheezels and shapes and stayed up to 12 discussing the trip.
With the logistics taken care of, another leg of our Murray journey comes to an end. Next time around - Swan Hill to Mildura!

Day 6 – Barham to 1462 Marker

I was woken by “flocking” cockatoos as 4.30 am and started packing at 5.00 am. Simon was up and out of his tent shortly after. We packed up and had breakfast before rolling the kayaks on their trolleys down to the boat ramp. Immediately after launching we passed under the Barham Bridge. Built by Sir John Monash it is one of the oldest on the Murray and new bridge is currently being built. (We were told that but couldn’t see any evidence of construction).

Once through Barham we were into the forest. The water level at Barham was about 1.5 meters below the high water mark but once in the forest the water was only about 10 centimetres lower than the high water mark. We past a few houses that must have had water lapping at their front door a few weeks ago. There were also plenty of “Run Offs” where water from the Murray was running into the forest.

We paddled for 3 hours without the opportunity to land as the banks were under water and/or covered in fresh new growth. Finally we reached a spot where we could get out and take a pee. By this time we had already covered 24 km.

We decided to push on to Murrabit where there was a boat ramp and picnic table. We arrived just on 12.00 noon to find the boat ramp closed and sign directing us to new ramp downstream on the other side of the Murrabit bridge. The new ramp was much better but the picnic setting was in the water.

There was a road maintenance crew stopped opposite the ramp. The grader driver came over for chat. He told us he had tasked with grading the road because a mob of kayakers were coming through and would be camping in Murrabit. Simon checked afterwards to find that the Murray Marathon will pass through in few days.

After the road crew left a couple from Queensland pulled up with 2 small fibreglass kayaks on top of  their car. Ron and Nancy (Simon said later they looked liked Ron and Nancy – no idea what their names were, he did all the talking, she didn’t say a word, were looking at the Murray for a possible longer kayak trip. We chatted with them for a while and Simon showed them how filthy his kayak was from the mud.

After lunch we set off to cover another 12 km to reach our target of 50 km for the day but realising we were now getting close to Swan Hill we went further and ended up covering 62 km before finding a campsite on the NSW side at the back of a rice farm. I was surprised Simon was happy to camp there as he usually resists “stealth camping” but it had been a long hot day and we needed to stop.

After setting up the tents I lay down for a rest and quickly fell asleep. I woke up and we had dinner, Shapes, Moroccan Cous cous and some vegetable stew concoction from a can followed by Two Fruits. I also had a coffee and 2 Scotch Fingers.

Day 5 – 1544 Marker to Barham

Simon was up at 5.30 am and already going about his morning routine. I exited the tent at 5.45 am. Even so by the time we had breakfast and packed the kayaks it was 7.00 am. With only 20 km to Barham we started at a leisurely pace. It was brilliantly sunny ahead of a predicted 35 degrees. On the water it was pleasantly cool and the morning sunlight was showing the forest at it’s best. The birdsong was lovely although interrupted by raucous cockatoos.

As we paddled closer to Barham we passed some nice houses buy the water and some farming properties. As always I thought about what it would be like to live there.

At 9.30 am we reached Barham after passing Koondrook on the other side of the river. We landed the kayaks at boat ramp next to a caravan park and dragged them onto the grass before heading up the main street for morning tea at Canvas Cafe. Simon had ginger beer with a lemon slice and I had an orange juice and coffee with a “snot block”. Simon was impressed that he was offered ice with his drink and followed up with a lemon drink. We went back to café for lunch because I saw that they had homemade pies (and beer).

At the caravan park we were told the tents sites had been under water and were still a bit damp so we paid that little bit extra to stay on a caravan site. Not only drier but a bit further away from the mozzie breeding ground.

The rest of the day was spent relaxing. We chatted to some people in the Op Shop where Simon was looking for a book to read and some ladies at the caravan park whose husbands were bowling in a tournament in town.

For dinner we went to the RSL Club where Simon tried to win a meat tray. I can’t understand how he missed out as there were 10 meat trays and everyone else in the lounge was winning them.

Only 114 km to go and  hot weather forecast for the next 3 days

Day 4 Halfway Bend to 1544 Marker

We had breakfast and got on the water at 7.15 am. There was mist rising off the river but this disappeared quickly as the sun came over the trees.   Even if you didn't see anything else on this trip the mist sitting the river as we took off was worth the cost of the trip according to Simon.

  Paddling was easy in the cool morning air. We heard then saw a paddle-steamer and waved as it
went by.

I took a selfie with my camera using the phone as a remote control. Simon asked “aren’t there enough pictures of you already”? How rude!

2 more paddle steamers passed us.This time they were on the wrong side of the river no we had to move in toward the bank and wait while they passed as weren’t altering course for us.

We stopped for a break at 9.15 am ramming our kayaks up the bank to get past as much mud a possible. Even so our feet sank into the ooze.

Scotch finger biscuits and we were back in the kayaks. 2 more paddle steamers passed by but I didn’t get photos because the camera was at the front of the kayak as I was making another selfie attempt.

At lunch we had reached 1568 and we just under half way to Swan Hill. Only cheeses and crackers for lunch and more crackers as we finished the cheese. Although I would have sat out the heat of the day normally we decided to push on thinking we could be finished by 2.30 pm. We did stop for a longer break and although we had covered 46 km we decided that we could keep going and reduce the distance to Barham to under 20 km.

As the afternoon wore on the river went through a very lazy stretch where it was like a lake with little current. It did pick up again later. Just after 1544 we called it a day and pulled into a nice campsite.

For dinner we had Shapes (I got stuck into them) followed by 2 minute noodles and baked beans, It was a beautiful night and we could have paddled through the night because the moon was so bright.

Day 3 – Turner Bend to Halfway Bend 52 km

At last a nice day! Forecast was a sunny 21 degrees. About 5.00 am the “flocking” birds started to make a racket. Then at 5.45 am Simon stuck his head in the tent however I told him I wasn’t getting up until 6.30 am. It was a bit chilly so I was in no rush to get moving.

After breakfast we packed up and took the kayaks back to the river and lifted them down to the pontoon. It was lovely sunny morning and there was very little wind. We had a short break after 2 hours and then had only 6 km more to Torumbarry Weir where we pulled out on a boat ramp a short walk from the weir.

We saw a paddle-steamer coming towards us just before Torumbarry and we saw another on the other side of the weir, They were returning from an event downriver.

We went to the Information Centre but could not find anything to tell us how to find the Lock Keeper. We went to the caravan park kiosk and bought some supplies and found out where the Lock Keeper’s office was. Simon was ringing the mobile no. On the door when Darren arrived. We arranged to go through the lock at 12.00 noon.

Back at the kayaks we floated down to the lock and waited. Just as Darren opened the gates the other kayakers we met yesterday appeared. They joined us going through the lock. It was all an anti-climax as I expected a lot of rushing water but it was nothing of the sort. The drop was only 3 metres because the river was so high. After the lock the current seemed slower than before. We paddled on for an hour before stopping for lunch.

Simon sinking in the mud while getting stuff from his kayak

The lunch spot was a nice bend in the river however the get-out was very muddy  and we sank to half-calf height. We enjoyed a hard boiled egg each and some wraps with cheese.

Back on the water we paddled for 2 more hours before having another break. We has already done 38 km so our goal of 50 km was in reach. At 4.00 pm we passed the 1612 marker which signified 100 km for the trip so far. We paddled onto 5.30 before finding a campsite at Halfway Bend just past the 1596 marker.

Another muddy get-out saw Simon get wet while getting out of his kayak. We set up camp and had dinner before retiring to the tents to get away from the mozzies.

All day long we have seen abundant birdlife. Lots of cockatoos, kookaburras, ducks, darters, ibis and spoonbills as well as a few kites. A great day paddling on the mighty Murray going through the Gunbower forest.

Day 2 Thunderbird Lake to Turner Bend (All the Rivers Run Caravan Park) 40 km

We were up early packing and having breakfast. The wind was still blowing however the rain had gone. We launched the kayaks at 7.30 am and paddled in sunshine. On bends in the river facing south and south west the wind was opposed to the current and this created waves. We worked hard into the wind and less hard down wind alternately. This was the pattern all day.

Simon had just launched through the trees

After 2 hours we rounded a bend to find 2 kayaks on a beach, One red, one yellow and 2 middle-age men camped there, It was like that scene in Harry Potter where Harry and Hermione see themselves across the lake. We pulled up and had a break and a chat. Wayne and Phil? They were doing a similar trip to us having paddled Albury to Yarrawonga last year and started again at Yarrawonga 2 weeks ago.

                 Our doppelgängers - sort of but taller

We pushed on to Deep Creek Marina. The map showed that there was a shop and hotel there however the shop was closed and up for sale and the pub wasn’t open. We really do need to research these shops etc. before our trips to see if they are still operating. We would have been in real trouble if we had planned to buy fuel at this marina. We had hard boiled eggs and cheese and biscuits for lunch. We were just finishing when the other guys turned up, They were disappointed about the shop as they were looking forward to a hamburger.

Deep Creek Marina

According to my plan Torumbarry Weir was only 12 km further, we had already covered 28 km however I had misread the map. When we reach the 1648 marker there was nothing there. The map showed a caravan park and after a little exploring we found it. We decided to stay although it was rather basic. No pub no beer!

Our 2nd navigational mishap occurred after setting up camp. Google Maps showed the township of Torumbarry was only 3.7 km away and it had a pub and general store. We decided to walk there carrying a few thousand flies on our backs only to be disappointed and there was nothing to be found when Siri announced we had arrived at our destination.

Back at camp we had sardines and pasta for dinner before heading off to bed. It was the night of the “Super Moon” but we were both asleep before it appeared in the sky. We both saw it later when we got up to pee. It did appear larger than normal but without my glasses I couldn't really tell

Echuca to Swan Hill - Day 1 - 26km

Left for Echuca from Carnegie about 7.15 am with Simon. The wind was very strong and the car was really revving on some hills into the wind. It started raining as well. We stopped for coffee and raisin toast at Castlemaine.

Pushed on to Echuca arriving about 11.00 am, We had a look around and then went to the supermarket and the Beechworth Bakery. Tasty pies before our big trip. It was still raining and we didn’t  want to pack up wet. The radar suggested it would clear so we set a deadline of 1.30 pm to get started. Joe parked his car at the Echuca Tourism Centre and this time left his details with the staff in side. On a previous trip the police were called about a lonely abandoned car.

Finally on the river at 2.00 pm . It was 12 degrees and windy but we were happy to get away. The distance marker showed 1712 km to the sea, only 304 km to Swan Hill. There had been talk about the  recent floods. The water level was up from last year and we were going with the flow but it was not as fast as you might have thought.  Passed some paddle-steamers and some houseboats going the other way.

The riverbanks near Echuca are populated with holiday cabins and houseboats but as we got further downstream we saw more forested areas. The wind was gusting strongly particularly on some stretches making paddling hard work.

After 2 hours we pulled over for a short break. The river banks were very muddy and slippery making exiting the kayak are bit tricky. As you can see Simon was having fun getting back into his kayak and Joe was on standby with his camera in case he fell in. After a couple of scotch finger biscuits we were on our way again. Another 2 hours and we had covered 25 km and found a campsite at Thunderbird Lake. It had toilets and a nice grassed area.

After setting up we cooked soup and sausages for dinner.  The mozzies started to get hungry so we were in our tents by 8.00 pm. It was windy all night and there was a shower of rain around 3.00 am.

Time to go back to the Murray - Echuca to Swan Hill

Last April (2016) Simon and I decided to postpone the next leg of the our trip down the Murray when there was an outbreak of blue-green algae that extended through the area we wished to travel (Echuca to Swan Hill). We ended up discovering Lake Tyers in Gippsland and had a wonderful time paddling there.

Now 6 months later we are ready to resume our journey. In the intervening period there has been a lot of rain has the Murray has benefited, the algae has gone and the river is at minor flood levels in many places including between Echuca and Swan Hill.

Peter Philips who we met at the end of the last leg has just paddled through from Echuca to Swan Hill and reported that although the water is high we will be able to find campsites, and mosquitoes - lots of mosquitoes.

Lake Tyers - April 19th to 22nd, 2016

Simon and I had been planning to go back up the Murray River to paddle the next leg, Echuca to Swan Hill. Unfortunately the blue-green algae outbreak caused us to alter our plans. Sometime earlier Simon had suggested we try out Lake Tyers. Despite having spent a lot of time on the Gippsland Lakes I had never been to Lake Tyers which although part of the lakes system is not connected to the other lakes.

I arrived at Bunyip around 10.00 am to collect Simon and we headed down the highway stopping at Sale for lunch at the bakery cafe we have visited previously. After there was another stop at a supermarket in Bairnsdale before finally arriving at Lake Tyers Beach around 3.00 pm. We were advised that there was  a better launch spot around the corner at Fisherman's Landing so we drove around there and commenced loading up the kayaks. Finally on the water at 3.30 pm we headed up the lake looking for a campsite that was marked on the map.

The lake itself was beautiful and we had a helpful tailwind. After about an hour we reached the spot we expected to find the campsite on "Trident Inlet". However there was no sign of an official campground. We decided to head around to a beach area we had spotted 200 meters away and set up our tents on grassy area near the water.

Dinner was Uncle Ben's Special Fried Rice that came in a foil-sealed pouch. I decided it was definitely not special, definitely not fried but was probably rice! Another camping meal option ruled out for the future. It was a magnificent evening we did spent some time staring up at the Milky Way as the sky was brilliantly clear.

The next morning I was up early so I went for a walk and found the official campsite. It was up on the hill just behind where we were camped. It was not set up for kayak camping though as it was too far from the water and we could not have dragged our gear that far.

After breakfast Simon and I wandered back up the track and he spotted these amazing mushrooms in a tree stump.

On the water we had perfect paddling conditions and we enjoyed the winding journey up the lake. There were plenty of twists and turns and the scenery was magnificent. The lake is forested down to the water for 90% of the way.

We stopped for morning tea the Cameron's Track campsite. There was car parked over the other side of the Inlet with some people camping but they were the only people we saw apart from a couple of fisherman all morning.

There were lots of pelicans and cormorants around the lake. It isn't easy to get good bird close-ups without a telephoto lens. This is a spoonbill that was near the waters edge.

We reached Nowa Nowa at the head of lake in time for lunch at the The Big Root Cafe. There were lots of cyclists there having lunch and getting themselves organised. They were all in their 60s & 70s and it was great to see such a vibrant and active group of "Crusties". Nowa Nowa is a stopping point on the East Gippsland Rail Trail. Simon, Tony and I have cycled the trail ourselves on the last occasion 6 years ago. Both of us would like to do so again (soon!).

Tony missing out again!

After lunch we set out to walk to Mount Nowa Nowa.It was a lovely walk past some nice houses with well kept gardens and a couple of houses populated by "ferals" with car bodies and rubbish all over the place. The walk up to lookout got more strenuous as we neared the top. Unfortunately the lookout is fenced off because the view would have been magnificent. We had a drink and a muesli for refreshment while we were there. Sadly I left my red baseball cap up there. It was a very battered, much travelled object but once we were halfway back to Nowa Nowa there was no going back.

Back down the mountain and a nice shower before dinner at the pub. When we walked in we were the only patrons. Later we were joined by a couple cycling the trail. He was a school principal on the point of retirement. His partner was younger and afterward we speculated that he had wooed one of his staff (possibly a student teacher). He was also a kayaker and was interested in our trip.

Simon had bangers and mash for $10 that he felt was a bargain. I had the fish which the hotel owner said was locally caught however the cooking was disappointing. The accompanying salad was very good though.

Day 3 we woke up to tents that were very wet with dew. Breakfast at the cafe and then after packing up we headed down to the water.  The sun had come out and we had another perfect day for paddling.

The big highlight of the morning was seeing an eagle carrying a big snake which it dropped 50 meters ahead of us. It appeared to fly out of the forest but I think it actually came around a corner of the lake. I paddled over to try and see the snake but it had disappeared. Simon wasn't so curious! We were both thrilled  to see wild nature in action.

The paddle back to Fisherman's Landing took about 4 hours with a stop at The Glasshouse campsite. Lake Tyers occasionally breaks through the sand bar and flows out to sea but at the moment the entrance is like a huge sand dune.

Back at Fisherman's Landing we loaded up the car and headed off to Swan Reach . Caravan Park where we stayed overnight.

Day 4 we drove down to Johnsonville Jetty on the Tambo River. The plan was to paddle down the river and across Lake King and then into Metung. The area around the jetty was shrouded in mist when we arrived but the sun came through strongly and the mist retreated rapidly.

We had a very pleasant paddle down the river and across the lake. There were some sea eagles in a dead tree adjacent to the river mouth but they flew off as I tried to photograph them.

Crossing Lake King we paddled through a patch of Blue Blubbers (jelly fish). I grabbed one and put it on my kayak half-deck to try and get a photo. It was very slippery and exuded a "snot-like" liquid.

Across the lake we stopped at Tambo Bluff for a break before paddling into Bancroft Bay and on the sandy spot just near  the main jetty next to Metung Pub.

Early lunch was from the bakery before a paddle around to Chinaman's Creek. There is a free camp spot with toilets in the old Hot Springs site but it looked a bit crappy so we decide to return to Johnsonville. The return paddle took a bit longer and was a bit of a slog toward the end.

We loaded up the car and headed down the highway for an overnight stopover at Simon's favourite free camp Marlay Point on Lake Wellington. Dinner was some excellent sausages in bread purchased on our way through Bairnsdale supplemented with Fat Yaks! Another peaceful night beside the water.

Our last morning we walked around through the reserve behind the campsite and enjoyed the views across the lake as the sun rose.