Day 7 Waikerie

Joe went for a run around Hart Lagoon – 2 km down the track he ran into a bog and didn’t want to get his shoes wet so reversed and went around the other side. Most of the lagoon was dry but there was a bird hide and few kangaroos about. At the far end he ran out on to a gravel road and up a hill back to the main road. 12.6 km later he was back at the cabin.

A truck loaded with locally grown outside the Nippy’s fruit juice factory at  Waikerie

We checked out and went off looking for the Tourist Information booth which was not where some signs suggested it would be. Eventually we discovered it in the library. A helpful staff member pointed us to the Waikerie Garden Centre for bus tickets to Renmark. While we were there Joe decided to buy a weather vane but decided to wait until later in the day so we didn’t have to carry it around. Back to town for breakfast.

A short walk from the garden centre were some silos that had artwork on them which we took pictures of before purchasing the weather vane. Joe enjoyed a nice chat about chickens with the shopkeeper before we headed back to caravan park to stash the weather vane in Joe’s kayak.

The other painted silo - Waikerie 

After that we spent some time in Riverside Park before catching the bus to Renmark and walking to Paringa to collect the car. We then drove back to Waikerie to load the kayaks and then drove to Moorook where we camped overnight before driving home the next day. 

Another section of the river completed - only 384 km left to the Murray Mouth that hopefully we will get to do later this year.

Day 6 Marker 410 to Waikerie 28 km

We were up and had breakfast before sunrise with a plan to be on the water early. The weather forecast indicated that it would get windy from early afternoon so we were trying to get to Waikerie early to avoid having to paddle against the wind again. It was perfectly still and we paddled 12 km by 10.00 am before taking a break. As has been the case for much of this leg there was a series of cliffs that we paddled past.

When we took a break for morning tea Joe discovered he had been sitting on a fish! It was only about whitebait size. Not sure how it arrived in the kayak seat but it was pretty flat after being crushed.

Close to 12.00 noon Waikerie came into view. As the main part of town is high on the cliffs overlooking the river we were beginning to wonder how we would get the kayaks up to the caravan park. About 2 km further on we sighted the ferry and then Riverside Park which is at river level.

Painted Silo - Waikerie

We parked the kayaks by the river and went to the caravan park to enquire a about a budget cabin. $100 is a bit more than our usual expenditure but we have been camping out the whole trip so we felt we deserved a little luxury. The cabin wasn’t ready for us so we dragged the kayaks up and showered in the general amenities block before heading into town for lunch at Supreme Eatz.

After lunch it was back to the cabin for an afternoon watching football. Dinner at the pub also involved watching football. Opting for the cabin turned out to be excellent judgement as there was a short cloud burst when we were getting dinner. There was no more rain but a nice dry cabin is always preferable to a wet tent.

Day 5 Lock 3 to Marker 410 26 km

We couldn’t go through the Lock until 8.00 am SA time but Joe’s phone battery and spare battery were both flat. While not essential the phone had the Map Me GPS app which we have been using to confirm our location so we paddled over to Lock early because Simon had spotted a power point in the public toilets. Unfortunately when we tried it out there was no power.

At 8.00 am we found the Lock Keeper Tim in the office (Joe didn’t realise it was the same guy who had let us through Lock 5). Tim asked if we minded waiting 20 minutes while he completed some data work. He invited us to make ourselves comfortable and to make coffee and get water from the fridge. Tim works 12 days on 2 days off (which he has with his young daughters – he is divorced). He had been driving a harvester for 8 hours overnight picking grapes. We had a good chat before he opened the big gates half an hour later and we went through Lock 3. 

With no breakfast we paddled onto Overland Corner where there is an historic hotel. More in hope than expectation we wanted to visit hotel. We reached a point where we knew the hotel was close and asked a couple of fishermen if we were that the right point to walk to the hotel. According to them we were but as one said “I wouldn’t walk that far”.  Turns out they were clueless - following their directions we set off and walked about 2 km before checking the GPS and walking back and then overland to the pub.

Overland Corner Hotel

The pub wasn’t opening for another 30 minutes but we were prepared to wait and were rewarded with a fish and chip lunch. We had to endure the very chatty “know all” publican who gave us the benefit of his vast knowledge. He was able to advise us on the Water Act  (Malcolm Turnbull’s fault), the Murray Darling Basin Plan, Indigenous weather prediction (they’ve been here for 100s of year) and much more - we were able to escape when other guests arrived. We had a good laugh about wanting to cut off our ears to escape. Nice historic building and the meal was good (cooked by the publican’s wife).

Back on the river we passed the landing area for the hotel only about 1 km downstream and much closer to the pub. The wind picked up and we had to work hard down some long reaches alongside some massive cliffs. Even when we changed direction the wind seemed to funnel down the river at us.

Eventually we pulled up opposite the 410 km marker near a moored houseboat. We set up our tents and kicked back before rushing to have 2 minute noodles for dinner as the rain started to fall. About 2 mm over all through the night but it was dry next morning. 

Day 4 Moorook to Lock 3 23 km

Joe was up early to a 10 km run. Starting in the dark he ran down the road for 5 km before turning back. At one point he ran past an animal shelter that had lots of dogs barking. Always a worry when running in unfamiliar territory that you might get confronted by a dog, the volume of dogs barking was a bit unnerving.

Back at camp we packed before heading into the general store for bad coffee and toasties. The plan was to do a short 16 km to Kingston On Murray and then push on late in the day another to 8 to 10 km. It was 38 degrees so even on the water it was hot.

We stopped at Cobdogla and went looking for a shop – there was none but we were able to get a coke at the caravan park. We spotted the sign on the river pointing to an entrance through some willows but we missed the entrance and landed near a big irrigation pump. We quickly saw our mistake as there was a nice marina just 30 metres away as we walked passed the willows.

The marina  - Bruny Bay, Cobdogla

Back on the water we got to Kingston On Murray in time for lunch. The shopkeeper at Moorook had bagged the shopkeeper at Kingston On Murray saying she only opened when she felt like it. Turns out the lady running the shop was pretty much running the busy shop by herself and made us really good burgers with the lot. There is much else happening in Kingston On Murray.

We retired to the shade for afternoon but stayed too long. When we finally got going we had a leisurely paddle for 4 km only to “discover” Lock 3 in our way. We were too late to go through and despite our reconnaissance we could not portage around the Lock.

We spotted a potential campsite on the other side of the river and hopped back in the kayaks and paddled over. There was lots of fallen tree debris and the ground was a bit rough but otherwise it was a great spot. 

Joe’s tent on the road opposite Lock 3

Joe set up his tent on the gravel road that ran down to the Lock. He wasn’t worried about a truck running over his tent as there was a large tree branch across the road so it was obvious there was very little traffic on this road. This was confirmed the next morning on his early morning run when he ran into a very large secure gate blocking the road. We were camping in the Banrock Station Feral Animal Exclusion Zone. Fortunately Simon was able to go undetected.

Day 3 Campsite 38 Katarapko Creek to Moorook 30 km

Early morning Campsite 38

Early start as Simon starts wandering around before it gets light. Muesli and coffee before packing up and getting on the water by 8.00 am. Ants had invaded our kayaks during night, fortunately they were not bitey but for the next 2 hours ants kept crawling around the cockpit. I (Joe) waited until they were within reach before pitching them overboard test their swimming ability.

Down the long straight river

There was some wind assistance and our speed at times was up to 7 kph but not for long. After a short break after 2 hours we started to tackle the longest straight stretch so far encountered. Fortunately the wind was behind us. We planned a lunch stop but then couldn’t find a good “get out”. When we did we were only 2 km from Moorook.

There is a camping area on the foreshore at Moorook. When we arrived the sprinklers were going full blast and this continued all afternoon. We bought a pie and a drink from the general store before going for a walk around the Main Street. There is a club with a bar and bistro and not much else. These small SA towns have these clubs which fill the role of the pub

We went for a swim in the river and then spent the rest of the afternoon in the shade. About 4.30 pm

the council workers drove up and turned of the sprinklers so we dragged our kayaks onto the campsite and tried to find a dry site.

We went to the club for dinner, Joe had the buffalo burger after asking the waitress about the emu burger, her response, “its not my taste”. The buffalo was excellent. Simon had a pizza. We were able to eat dinner watching football from a couch in front of the television so we were pretty happy.

Back at camp Simon broke out the beef jerky before bed, not a bad way to finish the day. During the night the sprinklers by the river front came on for about 30 minutes. Despite the drought there doesn’t seem to be a shortage of water here on the Murray for green grass by the river.

Day 2 Berri to Campsite 38 Katarapko Creek Anabranch 39 km

We packed up and had breakfast at a picnic setting on the river bank watching the sun rise. Another 35 degree day on the way.

Lock 4

We stopped in Berri township after 10 minutes paddling for shopping and 2nd breakfast before continuing down the river.

Barge transporting digger and dump truck at Berri

The river is broad and slow now so there is no easy paddling. Just before lunch we arrived at Lock 4. This time the lock master was very engaging and asked whether we would take the Katarapko Causeway anabranch which was an option we weren’t aware of. He told us it would save us 8 km and that we would by pass Loxton but that we could stop at Moorook which has a shop and club that serves meals.

Pelicans hanging about waiting for lunch 

We discussed the option and decided to check out the entrance to the creek. There was a low rock weir populated by pelicans and cormorants all waiting for quick meal.

We decided to do it and had to “portage” the kayaks around the wall and then we had lunch near the pelicans. After lunch we paddled on for further 70 minutes before stopping for rest break under the trees in the shade. Katarapko Creek was well populated with bird life and was probably the better choice. The lock keeper had said if left without intervention it would become the main course of the Murray and that the bend near Loxton would be cut off. Work has already commenced to install a regulator to manage the flow.

Simon being silly attempting the “Solo Man” launch!

After our nap we pushed on the junction of the Katarapko Creek and the Murray before backtracking to campsite 38. It was a wonderful spot. We had a swim to cool off and set up our tents - Joe only set up the fly again.

Dinner was Uncle Ben’s Egg Rice and Curried Tuna - followed by scotch fingers.

At there  was a bright full moon all but plenty of stars were visible. Joe enjoyed the full panorama all night. At one point a kangaroo hopped through camp. Pelicans and ducks drifted down the river past our campsite barely visible in the dark. 

Day 1 Paringa to Berri 40 km

Joe was up early to do a 10 km run along the bike path into Renmark and out past Maccas’ before looping back along the waterfront. Back at camp Simon was already up and going so we drove into Renmark to shop at Woolies and get some breakfast at a bakery. We also purchased sandwiches and rolls to take with us for lunch.

Spotting that the caravan park had trailer storage area Joe went to ask whether we could leave the car there for the week. We would have been happy to pay a fee but not required. Well done Riverbend Caravan Park!

Simon going under Paringa Bridge -viewed from Joe’s kayak

We launched the kayaks and paddled off under the Paringa Bridge. The noise of trucks crossing this bridge reverberated through the caravan park all night.

Just downstream we came to Lock 5 and Joe rang the lock master to get doors open. As usual going through the lock was easy. The lock master was not a talkative type. Despite Simon’s best attempt there was very little response. Apparently he is normally at Lock 3 but was filling in at Lock 5. Despite going through the lock there was no noticeable improvement in the current. Look like we will have paddle hard all the way to the sea.

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Late in the day we arrived just outside Berri at a riverside camping park. The foreshore had lovely green grass that was not for camping while out the back there was trees, scrub and sand for camping. It wasn’t too bad. 

Dinner was Mexican Rice and Tuna with melting chocolate for dessert eaten at a picnic setting on the river bank

Paringa to Waikerie Day 0

Joe had an 8.45 am appointment with the prosthodontist so departure wasn’t until 9.30 am. After Simon arrived we loaded the kayaks on the car and collected coffee in Carnegie and were on our way

We shared the driving to Renmark stopping only for nature breaks and food.  We arrived at Riverbend Caravan Park Paringa around 5.30 pm and booked in. It was about 35 degrees when we set up our tents and had a quick drive around Renmark and then headed to the Paringa Hotel for dinner. Simon had garlic prawns and rice while Joe had the vegetarian pasta - all good.

After dinner we explored the caravan park river bank for a launching spot. In the end we opted for the same spot Joe landed in November on the previous leg. We did look at the swimming “lagoon” but decided against it.

Back to our tents for an early night.

Before and after loading our  gear into the kayaks. How does it all fit?