Presentation by the Inland Rivers National Marathon Register

The last act of this journey was to record our journey in the Inland Rivers National Marathon Register. I had been trying to contact the coordinator for the register but had not been getting any response. It turned out that my email had gone to junk mail and my voicemail hadn't been heard. Finally I was able to make contact through their Facebook page administrator.

Frank Tuckwell, the Team Leader for Goolwa National Trust who maintains the register rang me while we were paddling down the Lower Murray to Goolwa. We arranged to meet at the wharf the next day for the presentation of the certificates. Getting recognition of our journey was not high on our agenda however it was nice that other people think what we have done is worthwhile.

The register records the journeys down the river of all sorts of watercraft and may not be comprehensive. You have to apply to have your journey registered so it is likely there are some who make the trip but do not register.

We frequently encounter people who say they know someone who have traveled the Murray in a "tinnie" but we haven't actually seen anyone doing that. When we have been on the river we have seen very few people except fishermen. For this reason I suspect the register is probably close to the mark in capturing accurate numbers. I am really only interested in the kayak paddlers.

According to the certificates we received we are the 11th & 12th people to complete the trip from the top of the river to Goolwa in 2019. For the record Simon is the 11th meaning he beat me over the line which is actually correct as he passed under the Hindmarsh Island Bridge ahead of me. There were 22 people complete the journey in 2018. There were 3 other kayak paddlers we know of on the river behind us when we finished.

There is a sense of achievement in being part of such a small group who completed the journey under their own power.

Day 13 Point Sturt to Goolwa 25 km

We woke to a grey morning with a stiff south easterly breeze. The lake looked a little choppy. 

We set off after 7:00 am and once we had passed the tip of Stony Point the choppy seas subsided. I was feeling weary and didn't have much energy probably due to skipping breakfast in order to make an early start. 

A number of times today we had to consult the map, look at the GPS and use the compass to determine which direction to go. It would have been possible to go a little offtrack and miss the right spot to enter the Lower Murray.

After 2 hours we arrived at Clayton Bay. The local cafe/store wasn't opening for another 45 minutes. We wandered down the caravan park in the hope there was a kiosk - no luck there. We decided to wait until the cafe opened and it turned out to be well worthwhile. The owner and his cook arrived just before 10:00 local time and we able to order a late breakfast  - excellent bacon & egg rolls and coffee.

The owner of the cafe was a chatty bloke who had decided to run the cafe himself after the leaseholder had left with business in a mess. We both think the business will struggle to get enough patronage to survive but good luck to him.

After our late breakfast we paddled on to Goolwa. It took another 2 and half hours before the Hindmarsh Island Bridge came into sight. We paddled under it and then landed on a old boat ramp just under the bridge. After some research we determined that we needed to paddle back 2 km to the Hindmarsh Island Caravan Park where we booked in for 1 nights.

A quick shower and we were in a taxi to Goolwa Airport. The taxi driver as well as the cafe owner earlier were surprised that we could hire a car at the airport. It is a tiny airport and the airport manager also is the Europcar agent who hires cars for pilots who land there.  They don't usually do outside hires but I had booked it through Europcar central booking so it all worked for us.

After picking up the car Simon suggested we drive to Waikerie immediately instead of waiting unit l the next morning so we spent the late afternoon and evening driving too and from. It was a good idea because he meant we could get home earlier even though it cost a little more because we had booked the car and accommodation for 2 nights. 

Day 12 Wellington to Point Sturt via Narrung and Raukkan 35 km

Wellington Ferry as we set off

Simon turned on the light at 5:10 am 20 minutes earlier than our agreement. I knew getting on the water early was important today but I felt like I had only just fallen asleep.

We finished breakfast and packed the kayaks at 1st light. We dragged the kayaks down to the water and paddled past the ferry. There was mist rising from the river.

Further along the river cormorants in their thousands perched in the taller trees over the river. as we approached there was a stampede as the birds were flying off the perches over the river. It was amazing to watch.

As the river widened into the lake I had to pee. Should not have had the big coffee this morning! We headed to the eastern side of the river.

Much relieved we paddled on - we chose a point on the far distant Narrung Peninsula and paddled towards it for 2 hours.  After being bounced around by the following sea caused by the northerly breeze we landed on an inlet near some farm buildings. I almost collided with Simon landing my kayak on the lee shore. We both gto water in the cockpit and have to use the pumps to clear it out. I also broke the bow handle of my kayak. In future I will have to tow the kayak backward.

Narrung Jetty

We landed 5 km east of Narrung and then paddled along the shore until we entered the Narrung Inlet where there is a ferry. We landed in some grungy water and pulled the kayaks up. We chat with a guy camping there and researched the General Store situation. No store here. Our lunch is Cup-a-soup - there is nothing else left.

Point Malcolm Lighthouse opposite Narrung - Not operational

After lunch we paddled 6 km around the coast to Raukkan. We are paddled along when we were overflown by a mass of cormorants streaming from the shore. There are tens of thousands of cormorants escorted by a few pelicans. After the cormorants there are more pelicans gliding just above the water. Later we pass a mob of approx 300 pelicans on shore.

The General Store at Ruakkan is closed for a meeting - it is not our day. Simon chats with a local and we hang around for 20 minutes before giving up. Raukkan is an historic village set up by the Aboriginal Friends Society as a settlement in the early 20th century and is the home of the Nrranjeri Nation group. It is strange to call buildings built by Europeans a century ago historic in relation to a culture that existed for 60,000 years. The settlement was originally called Port Macleay and was home to David Uniapon the aboriginal polymath whose picture is on the $50 note.

From here we had another open water crossing to Point Sturt. There was a South-West wind and waves in our face. It took 2 hours to make the crossing of 5 km. Finally we arrive at Point Sturt and camp the night. We chat to some other campers - Wayne an interesting guy is excited by a seal lion he had been watching. We had passed a dead seal rolling in the waves an hour earlier - we think it is the same one.

Later when we are cooking dinner my phone rings. It is Prashad ringing to tell me of a contract job offer coming my way. It sounds good so I tentatively agree to let him put my name forward. I am not looking for work but the dollars sound very tempting.

Day 11 Avoca Dell to Wellington 41 km

We left the caravan park at 7:00 am and had an hour of steady paddling to reach Murray Bridge where we stopped to find breakfast. There was nothing open in Murray Bridge except Micky Ds. We had coffee and toasted sandwiches before returning to the kayaks. There was a cycling event happening in the park as we paddled away.

The bridge at Murray Bridge

Back on the water we were shadowed by the Captain Proud, a diesel powered paddle wheeler. I got a few shots of Simon chasing the boat.

After that we just paddle all day. We had a couple of stops for a break. One where we had Scotch Fingers, another at Westbrook Caravan Park where we had Jelly Babies, and finally at Tailem Bend where we landed on the rowing club pontoon and headed up the street for some lunch at 3:30 pm.

We had missed finding the River Edge Caravan Park and had no other options at Tailem Bend so we had to go on to Wellington, a further 12 km. In the end we paddle 41 km. It was pleasant 

We landed on a grass bank adjacent to the ferry ramp and then dragged our kayaks up the street to the caravan park where we book in to budget cabin. At $45 it is too much for the cabin we get but we want to save time packing up in the morning. We need an early start tomorrow when we will start the crossing of Lake Alexandrina. 

Day 10 Mannum to Avoca Dell Reserve 32 km

Mannum Lagoon - Early morning

Yesterday was a Rest Day and appropriately we did very little other than our laundry and eating. After breakfast in a cafe we wandered the shopping strip, went to the tourism office and then went back to the caravan park to do our laundry. In the evening we went back to the Pretoria Hotel for dinner. Later we sat in the camp kitchen watching WBBL while Joe assisted another camper to set off the smoke alarm by unplugging the range hood while they were using the hot plate to cook steak.

Today we had a later start as we wanted a proper breakfast. Excellent breakfast in the motel restaurant nearby. After that I purchased sandwiches and coke for lunch.

One of Mannum's 2 ferries

We were on the water about 9:15 am. We passed the ferries and proceeded down the river. The scenery was unspectacular all day as the banks are smothered with willow trees. There was also less bird life - only the darters seem uninhibited by the willows. There were fish jumping in abundance though and not just carp.

We stopped for 1st lunch at 11:00 at Zadows Landing and then cruised on to more of the same. 90 minutes later we didn't stop at a reserve where there were lots of young water skiers. It was a mistake because after that there were few places to stop.

A further hour and according to the map we were at our destination but we weren't. The map showed an entirely wrong location for the Avoca Dell. According to the map it should have been adjacent to Sunnyside Landing. It was actually 6 km further down the river. This occurred at a time when the wind had sprung up and was pushing us backward. We slogged into the wind for a further 90 minutes.

Eventually we arrived at Avoca Dell and checked into the caravan park which was hosting  A evangelical Christian group and a number of young families attending a party next door. Our tent site was between to young families that were attending the party next door. Troy the father of 3 young boys gave a us a 6 pack of Coopers Pale Ale to have with dinner - what a great guy!

While we were having dinner the Christians commenced assembling around us to hold a sing-a-long prayer meeting. Before one the group came in with his guitar and chatted with us. He left for a while and Simon picked up the guitar and rocked out a couple of tunes. We left before the service commenced and retired early for the evening. Simon was worried he would get roped in to play at the service and I was worried I would get recognised as a heretic.

a couple of cooperative pelicans

Day 8 Purnong to Mannum 40 km

Day 8 Purnong to Mannum 40 km

Last night we decided to push hard to get to Mannum today. 40 km is a big day for us in this part of the river particularly if the wind gets going. This means another early start - we were on the water just after 6:00 am local time.

Steady paddling saw us passing Bow Hill and its General Store more than an hour before opening time. No bacon & egg roll and coffee today! 7 km done 33 to go - next Young  Husband which is more a locality than a town. Young Husband is the name of the station property of this area.

We saw a kayak ahead in the distance - we weren't aware of any other expeditioners ahead of us so it was likely to be a day paddler. Eventually we caught up to a couple in double sit-on kayak as they climbed back onto a houseboat. The couple were just mucking about. They had hired the houseboat with relatives who were out from the UK.

We took a break from the river after 2 hours and 20 minutes. Rum & raisin chocolate for snack.

Steve and Monk (Peter)

Shortly after we were hailed by Steve and "Monk" (shortened for Monkey - actually Peter). Offered coffee we stopped for a chat. I introduced Simon as my father - good laugh for me! With 2 other guys they lease some waterfront from a farmer. Great chat, nice guys!

After 5 hours we reached the Young Husband caravan park and store where we topped for lunch. The store was closed and is up for sale. Noodles and cheese and crackers for lunch.

The last 15 km were a slog - as we got closer the wind was in our face for a long stretch. We hopped out to stretch our legs at the Kia Marina. Simon had a chat with some fishermen who advised him to crossed to the other side of the river to get protection from the wind and to cut the corner approaching town. I had come to the same conclusion.

Day 7 Nildottie to Purnong 32 km

Realising we can't fight the wind and win we decided to start early and cover as much distance as we could before the wind rose. Simon set the alarm on his phone for 5:30 am. I was awake and already packing before the alarm went off.

We skipped breakfast and started paddling at 6:15 am. The water was still and quiet - there were pelicans patrolling the river spaced apart every 50 metres. As we passed under the cliffs there were flocks of cockatoo squawking presumably making conversation. They are raucous noisy birds . Every now and then we would hear a plop and see a splash under tree hanging out over the river - a darter had dropped into the water to escape the approaching kayaks.

At the 1 hour mark we stopped for cheese and biscuits at Kroehns Flat. It was meant to be Wongala - the map and the river markers are in discord at the point. A sign on the reserve said Kroehns Reserve however the distance markers suggested we were 4 km further. The map did not agree with the markers all day.

After 3.5 hours we arrived at Walker Flat a quiet spot with a ferry and General Store. It was 11:20 and we were hungry so we ordered salad rolls at the store and ate them in the foreshore park. While we were there the Oscar W a paddle steamer from Goolwa passed through going upstream

the neighbors you don't want!

From there our next stop was Caunemont. Again the map was 4 km out. It took until 1:30 pm to get there. We expected to find camping there but it really didn't suit us. We cooked up some maggi noodles for 2nd lunch and ate them. The flies were annoying here. There was also some newly installed community exercise machines in the park that I tried out. They are quite cleverly designed using your own body weight for resistance.

PS Marion

We decided to move onto Purnong hoping to find better camping.

We  finished the day having paddled 35 km

Day 6 Punyelroo to Nildottie 13 km

An early start after the windiest night I have ever spent in a tent. It was a stifling hot evening followed by a late night cool change. The wind howled through the night making sleep difficult.

Crossing the lagoon towards the cave

We were up early as we wanted to visit Punyelroo Cave before continuing down the river. The cave was on the other side of the lagoon opposite the caravan park. We had a little trouble locating the cave. We did follow a path that took me to the top of the cliff including a steep section that required use on a rope to ascend.

Path to the top of cliff

Eventually we found the cave. It was a dry cave so no stalactites or stalagmites. It was worthwhile if only for the fun of finding it.

the light shining out of .....

Simon at the cave entrance

Back on the river the wind picked although for the 90 minutes it did not bother us as has some protection from the south as we're travelling East. Once we arrived at Big Bend we were surfing down waves as the cliffs channeled the wind helpfully however on the other side of the 180 degree curve we were fighting headwind and waves.

PS Marion

Murray Princess

A couple of paddle steamers passed through while we we in Big Bend. The Murray Princess is actually diesel driven. It is the most luxurious of the overnight cruisers on the river. Simon was keen to take Cathrine on it until he found out later the cost.

Arriving at Nildottie the wind was too strong for further paddling forcing us to stop fir the day. We did walk  3 km to the General Store for lunch but after we just relaxed for the rest day of the day.

Day 5 Castles Landing to Punyelroo Caravan Park 29 km

I rolled over and thought to myself "why are those birds making so much noise"?

Then I realised the light penetrating the tent was not the moon, it was first light. Time to start another day on the river. The forecast 36 degrees and northerly wind - for us a tailwind at last.

The 1st 2 hours the water was glassy as there was no wind. We stopped for Scotch Fingers on a high bank opposite a water treatment plant. Another 90 minutes were at Swan Reach. As we were landing near the ferry I could hear the Last Post" being played. Realising that it was a Remembrance Day commemoration I let Simon know and we were silent until we heard "Reveille".

Looking pensive at lunch in the cafe at Swan Reach

Just up the bank and 30 metres away was the town war memorial and a small crowd disassembling. We shopped at the grocer and bought lunch at the cafe with only 5 km more to Punyelroo we took our time.

At the caravan park we finally found the manager. He wasn't expecting anyone and we had their park to ourselves.

Kookaburra at Castles Landing

Day 4 Cordola Campground to Castles Landing

Day 4 Cordola Campground to Castles Landing 32

It was still moonlight night.  It would have been possible to paddle the kayaks on the river in the light. Later when the moon had set the stars were all around. A lovely night!

The bird chorus started early just before 1st light. We continue to operate on Melbourne time. We were up and packing at 6:00 am. Coffee and muesli before setting off. Despite the lack of wind we could not get faster than 6 kph. There is virtually no current.

The magic moment for today was seeing an Australasian Darter with a noisy hungry chick in its nest above the river. Unfortunately my camera battery was flat. We drifted past and got a good look. Well spotted Simon! This was on the edge of the Roinka Conservation Reserve.

Earlier I spotted a kingfisher flashing past and landing on a branch. The bird life on this trip has been magnificent. There have been plenty of whistling kites, darters, cormorants and galahs. There have also been parrots although the species has not been clear. We saw swallows nests on the cliffs we past yesterday.

And there are pelicans all along the river but particularly at the Locks. We passed through Lock 1 at Blanchetown after lunch from the General Store. There was a reception committee of pelicans on the other side of the Lock waiting for a feed. The Lock keeper said they were feeding on tiny Brim.

At lunch we researched and found there was a private campsite "Castles Landing" 7 km downstream of Lock 1. It was starting to get hot when we arrived at the camp ground. We walked around and found a site that didn't have rotting carp and settled for the afternoon.

The Map Whisperer